Bhutan im Land des Donnerdrachens oder auf der Suche nach dem Glück   20.09.2010 - 4.10.2010

 

Reisebericht Bhutan 17.9 – 5.10.2010

 

17./18.09.2010

Flug nach Delhi

18.9. - 19.09.2010

Delhi

20.09.2010

Delhi - Paro - Thimphu

21.09.2010

Thimphu -Bumthang

 

22.09.2010

Bumthang

23.09.2010

Bumthang

Festival

(kein Bericht nur Bilder)

24.09.2010

Bumthang - Tal der Kraniche

 

25.09.2010

nach Punakha

26.09.2010

Punakha - Thimphu

27.09.2010

Thimph Paro

28.09.2010

1. Trekkingtag

 

29.09.2010

2. Trekkingtag

30.09.2010

3. Trekkingtag

1.10.2010

4. Trekkingtag

2.10.2010

5. Trekkingtag und Paro

 

3.10.2010

 Paro Tigernest

Wanderung zum Tigernest

 (kein Bericht nur Bilder)

4.10.2010

Rückflug nach Delhi

Zurück zur Übersicht

 

25. September 2010

 

Alle Bilder Tag 6

Wir schliefen gut, nicht zuletzt wegen der Wärmeflasche, die wir am Vorabend im Bett vorfanden. Nach dem Frühstück machten wir einen kurzen Spaziergang durch das Dorf. Wir sahen, wie die Kinder aus allen Richtungen zur Schule gingen. Ein etwa 12 jähriger Junge hatte einen riesige Balken hinter dem Rücken und schleppte ihn geradzu mühelos in die Schule. Ich glaube, ich hätte unter der Last geächst. Als sich ein Auto auf dem Weg näherte, traten alle Schüler zur Seite und als es an ihnen vorbeifuhr verbeugten sie sich. Es war ein Lehrer im Auto. Die Schule war umzäunt, wahrscheinlich wegen wilder Tiere. Um in die Schule zu gelangen, musste man den Zaun auf einer Leiter, wie man sie oft auf Weiden sieht, überwinden.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Auszug aus dem loneley planet

Phobjikha is a bowl-shaped glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains, bordering the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park. Because of the large flock of black-necked cranes that winters here, it is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country. In addition to the cranes there are also muntjacs (barking deer), wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, leopards and red foxes in the surrounding hills. The Nakey Chhu drains the marshy valley, eventually flowing into the lower reaches of the Punak Tsang Chhu.

Some people refer to this entire region as Gangte (or Gangtey), after the goemba that sits on a ridge above the valley. The three-day Gangte trek takes off from this valley.

The road from Gangte Goemba winds down to the valley floor and passes extensive russet-coloured fields of potatoes that contrast with the rich green of the valley. Gangte potatoes are the region’s primary cash crop and one of Bhutan’s important exports to India.

Eine Kartoffelfuhre nach Indien

The valley is snowbound during the height of winter and many of the valley’s 4500 residents, including the monks, shift to winter residences in Wangdue Phodrang during December and January, just as the cranes move in to take their place. The local residents, known as Gangteps, speak a dialect called Henke. Pockets of the Bon religion reputedly exist in the Taphu Valley.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Auf dem Weg zur Schule (Schule im Hintergrund)

 

In der Küche unseres Farmhauses

Wir packten und fuhren los. Nicht weit nur bis zum Schwarznackenkranich – Beobachtungs- und Forschungszentrum. Die Kraniche waren noch nicht eingetroffen. Nur einen einzigen Kranich, der im Frühjahr verletzungsbedingt nicht mitfliegen konnte und den Sommer im Tal verbracht hatte,  konnten wir mit den Teleskopen beobachten. Wir schauten noch einen Film und weiter ging es zum Tempel / Kloster im Tal.

 

Das Leben findet auf der Straße statt.

 

Wir packten und fuhren los. Nicht weit nur bis zum Schwarznackenkranich – Beobachtungs- und Forschungszentrum. Die Kraniche waren noch nicht eingetroffen. Nur einen einzigen Kranich, der im Frühjahr verletzungsbedingt nicht mitfliegen konnte und den Sommer im Tal verbracht hatte,  konnten wir mit den Teleskopen beobachten. Wir schauten noch einen Film über Bhutan und die Kraniche und weiter ging es zum Tempel / Kloster im Tal.

 

Hier einige Informationen über den Schwarzhalskranich. Die Tänze der Bogenschützen sind dem Tanz des Kraniches nachempfunden.

 

Skip Überspringen

 

Auszug aus der Wikipedia

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Schwarzhalskranich

Der 120 cm lange Schwarzhalskranich (Grus nigricollis) ist ein großer weiß-grauer Vogel mit schwarzem Kopf und Oberhals. Der Kopf besitzt einen weißen Hinteraugenfleck und roten Scheitelfleck. Die Armschwingen und Handschwingen sind schwarz gefärbt.

Dieser Kranich brütet vor allem im Hochland von Tibet, aber auch in Ladakh in Indien. Er überwintert in tieferen Gebieten in China und Bhutan.

Der Bestand wird auf 5600 bis 6000 Tiere geschätzt. In Indien, China und Bhutan ist die Art gesetzlich geschützt.

 

Black-necked Cranes in Bhutan

Black-necked Crane, Grus nigricollis

The Black-necked Cranes in Bhutan (Grus nigricollis) are winter visitors during late October to mid February to the Phobjika Valley from the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau and Ladakh, India, where they breed. They visit the Phobhjikha valley in large numbers, which is a declared protected area for the cranes, and also to other valleys in smaller numbers in central and eastern Bhutan. On arrival in the Phobhjikha (also called the 'Gangtey Valley') they are seen to circle the Gangteng Monastery (also known as Gangten Gonpa) three times as if they are paying obeisance to the gods in the monastery and repeat this act while returning to Tibet іn early spring. The Jigme Dorji Wongchuk Sanctuary, adjoining the Phobjika Valley across the Black Mountains Range, has within its precincts, the crane wintering area at Bumdeling, which also has been declared a protected area. These cranes known by the binomial name Grus nigricollis and also as Tibetan Crane are categorized as Vulnerable in the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species maintained by the World Conservation Union (IUCN) under Appendix I and II of CITES. The Black-necked Cranes, the last to be found among the 16 species of cranes, were first identified by Nikolai Przhevalsky of the Imperial Russian Army in 1876 in the Tibetan Plateau.

Apart from China and India, Bhutan has taken special care to protect this species and has established the Phobjikha Conservation Area covering 163 square kilometres (63 sq mi) of the valley under the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN) and for the purpose of conservation management. The conservation area was established by Bhutan in the Phobjika Valley in 2003, and RSPN has the mandate to protect not only the Black-necked Cranes but also 13 other vulnerable species. The cranes, which used to be hunted in Bhutan till 1980 are now totally protected, with the Government of Bhutan enacting a law under which any person killing a crane would invite life term jail sentence.

In Bhutan, the Black-necked Cranes have a celebrity status, as witnessed by the Crane Festival held every year on 12 November, soon after their arrival from the Tibetan Plateau, in the courtyards of the Gangten Gonpa in Phobjika Valley. Many tourists also visit the valley to witness this festival.

Habitat

The conservation area or habitat in the Phobhjikha Valley, established in 2003 has, not only the Black-necked Cranes, but also 13 other vulnerable species such as Rufous-necked Hornbill Aceros nipalensis, Chestnut-breasted Partridge Arborophila mandellii, Pallas's Fish-eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus, nuthatch Sitta Formosa, Wood Snipe Gallinago nemoricola, Blyth's Tragopan Tragopan blythii, Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga, Imperial eagle Aquila heliaca, Baer's Pochard Aythya baeri, Hodgson's Bushchat Saxicola insignis, Dark-rumped Swift Apus acuticauda, and Grey-crowned Prinia Prinia cinereocapilla The Black-necked Cranes arrive in this valley in late October and depart in mid February. They feed on the particular type of dwarf bamboos that grow in the wetlands of the valley. The thick grasslands of wetlands are also grazing grounds for a large number of cattle and horses during the summer months that helps the growth of the tender bamboo shoots on which the cranes feed later during the winter season. There were suggestions that the wetlands be drained and used to grow cash crops such as potatoes, which is also the main crop of the valley. Such an action would have deprived the cranes of their main feeding centres. However, Palje "Benjie" Dorji, former Chief Justice of Bhutan, former Minister for Environment and uncle of the present King of Bhutan, as the Chairman of the Royal Bhutan Society and as founder of the Black-necked Conservation Programme prevailed on the Government of Bhutan to drop the proposal to drain the wetlands of the Phobjika Valley to create farms to grow cash rich seed potatoes.

This crane species is legally protected in Bhutan and its hunting is prohibited. The religious culture of the Buddhists has attracted the cranes closer to the religious communities of Lamas, particularly in the Phobjikha and Khotokha valleys. Another reason for this is that when the large number of cranes visit these valleys, which are snow bound, the village community, including the Buddhist Lamas migrate to warmer regions to Wangdue Phodrong, thus avoiding a human conflict with the cranes' habitat, which forage in the valleys in marshy lands that are ploughed before winter and that provide insects and plant material and seeds. In these habitats, it is inferred, that livestock also helps by grazing on grass which in turn helps in bamboo regeneration on which the cranes feed.[4]

Another feature noted in Bhutan is the belief among the common people that they are blessed when cranes circle around their valleys. A particular practice observed is that they plant the winter wheat only after the cranes arrive in their valleys to roost. Bhutanese people sing folk songs as the cranes arrive in Bhutan and also dance in the autumn. They call it as thrung thrung karmo. The religious significance of these cranes is further accentuated in Bhutan by the report that "they mate for life and ...live for 30 or 40 years".

Population

Phobjika valley has recorded the maximum number of cranes in Bhutan for several years. Other places in Bhutan where the cranes have been sighted in small numbers are: Bumdeling, Lhuntshi District, Thangmachu, Thangby-Kharsa, Tashi Yangtse, Punakha Valley, Bumthang Valley, Jakhar Valley, Samtengang, Gyetsa, Khatekha Valley, Gogona and Wangdi. However, the Phobjika Valley is one of the two important wintering grounds, where a special protection centre has been established to protect these birds. The number of cranes reported here was 120 in 1986/87. It rose to 219 in November 2000 and is quoted as 270 now. However, its numbers, reported world wide, is very large (initially it was mentioned as 800 till they found them in very large numbers in China), with a total world population of about 11,000 individuals (mature individuals about 8,800) in the wild, mostly in China including Tibet, about 500 in Bhutan and several numbers in Arunachal Pradesh in India, and a small number in Vietnam also. There are indications that their number is increasing due to conservation efforts which may eventually result in downgrading its vulnerability to threat to a lower category.

Threats

Its habitats in Bhutan, mainly the wetlands, were getting degraded due to agriculture and anthropogenic pressures on its breeding and wintering grounds, causing its numbers to decline, as also in other parts of the world, and was thus declared under the Vulnerable category (C1). The 2006 flood event in Bhutan is said to have affected substantially the crane’s roosting habitat in Bomdeling Wild Life Sanctuary.

Conservation measures

The conservation measures undertaken in Bhutan to preserve and conserve the cranes are unique; in fact more and more crane habitat areas are being brought under the protected area concept. The Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSPN) established in 2003, which has the mandate for conservation and nature education has been involved in monitoring the winter visitors to the Phobjika valley and its adjoining Bomdeling Valley. According to recorded information, 141 cranes visit Bomdeling valley (Phobjika reports a count of about 400 now) every year. RSPN has an Information Centre at the Phobjika Valley, which provides information on cranes and the environment of the valley. The information Centre is a very modern decagonal building, next to a stream, with high-tech equipment. There is also a guesthouse for birdwatchers. The Society has also produced a documentary film on the cranes visiting Bhutan every year. Further, in Phubjika the Observation Towers have been so located that they cause the least disturbance to the crane habitats. Tourists are allowed to observe the cranes through the two or three high tech “spotting telescopes’’ and spotted on the watch the behaviour of the crane as described in the RSPN pamphlet titled “Filed Guide to Crane Behaviour”, from a safe distance under the strict supervision of forest officials. Farmers are also advised to replace the barbed wire fencing with wooden and stone fencing to reduce harm to the cranes. Collisions with powerlines cause mortality to many crane species and when electricity was to be provided to the valley, the power cables were laid underground to avoid any mortality. The work was taken up during summer when the birds do not use the area.

Crane population counts are conducted during the winter by the RSPN, the Sherubtse College and the Nature and Trekking Club. A Nature Reserve Centre has also been established at Kibethang, near the Phobjikha wintering grounds with funding provided by WWF and USA.

Festival

A Black-necked Crane festival is held every year in the premises of the Gangteng Monastery on 12 November to welcome the cranes, which start arriving in late October. The festival is attended by a large number of local people. On this occasion, children wearing crane costumes perform choreographed crane dances. During this period, cranes are seen flying at high altitudes over the mountains.

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 Der Tempel war gerade renoviert worden.

 

Blick vom Tempel auf das Dorf und das Tal der Kraniche

Vom Tal ging es zurück über einen kleinen Pass nach Wangdue Phodrang.

____________________________________________________________________________________________

Auszug aus der Wikipedia

Wangdue Phodrang (Dzongkha: དབང་འདུས་ཕོ་བྲང་རྫོང་ཁག་) (previously spelled Wangdi Phodrang) is a dzongkhag (district), of central Bhutan. This is also the name of the dzong (built in 1638) which dominates the district, and the name of the small market town outside the gates of the dzong. The name is said to have been given by the Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal who was searching for the best location for a dzong to prevent incursions from the south. The word "wangdue" means unification of Country, and "Phodrang" means Palace in their national language dzongkha.

Wangdue Phodrang is bordered by Dagana and Tsirang dzongkhags to the south, Tongsa dzongkhag to the east, Thimphu and Punakha dzongkhag to the west, and Gasa dzongkhag and a small section of border with Tibet to the north.

There are three paved roads in Wangdue Phodrang dzongkhag. The Lateral Road enters from the west at Dochu La Pass, crosses the Pana Tsang Chhu at Wangdue Phodrang dzong, and continues east to Tongsa. One spur road heads north from Wangdue Phodrang to the dzong at Punakha and slightly beyond. This road eventually becomes the trail to Gasa. A second spur departs the Lateral Road near the Pele La pass halfway between Wangdue and Tongsa, traveling south a short distance to Gangteng monastery and the Phobjika valley where the rare Black-necked Cranes (grus nigricollis) may be found.

____________________________________________________________________________________________

 

Unterwegs liefen wir wieder ein Stück zu Fuß, um die Landschaft Bhutans noch intensiver in uns aufzunehmen. Es war zeitweise neblig, doch die riesigen Zedern, die mit Spanischem Moos behangenen Bäume und die sauerstoffreiche Luft, waren es wert, auf den Komfort des Autos zu verzichten.

 

Auf der Fahrt nach Wangdue Phodrangwo kamen wir an einem kleinen Markt vorbei.

 

 

In Wangdue Phodrangwo aßen wir in dem selben Restaurant wie auf der Hinfahrt zu Mittag und besuchten den Dzong.

Wangdiphodrang Dzong
Wangdue Phodrang Dzong was founded by the Zhabdrung in 1639. Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal was supposedly at Chimmi Lhakhang in Punakha when he met a decrepit old man who described a ridge in present day Wangdue Phodrang as a ‘sleeping elephant’ and told him he would unite the country by building a Dzong on the ‘neck’ of the ridge. The Zhabdrung, surmising the old man to be Yeshey Gonpo (Mahakala), took his suggestion and sent forth a noble to scout the area. As the emissary drew close to the area, he saw four ravens circling above the ridge. Upon reaching the ridge, the birds flew away in four directions, north, south, east and west. When returning to Chimmi Lhakhang, he made his report. Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel took this as a good omen and immediately set forth in 1638 to construct a Dzong overlooking the convergence of the Dangchu and Punatshang chu. The people of Wang and Shar Dar Gyad were involved in its construction along with the people of Rinchen Gang who were skilled masons.

There are three doorways and three courtyards in the Dzong. The first gate is the entrance, the second leads to the inner sanctum of the Dzong and the third contains the deep interiors of this historic structure.

Years later, the Dzong was enlarged by the 4th Desi Tenzin Rabgye. In addition to the four storied Utse built by Zhabdrung he added another two storied Utse. The construction was looked after by the Dzongpon Gedun Chophel. The 7th Dzongpon of Wangduephodrang Sonam Lhendup also added new structures to the Dzong. He also installed a statue of Lord Buddha.

Much later with the passage of time a powerful local lord known as Kawang Sangye, extended the Dzong towards the present town. Another Wangzop, Acho Boep, ordered further construction, modifying the Dzong to the form which it holds today. In 1837 the Dzong was destroyed by a great fire and later rebuilt. During the time of Lam Neten Pelden Singye the Dzong was also damaged by a severe earthquake which was later rebuilt. Dzongpon Domchung also seems to have also restored the Dzong though at an unknown time. During the reign of the Late King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the Dzong was renovated supervised by Dronyer Pema Wangdi.

The rabdey was first instituted by Zhabdrung himself after the completion of the Dzong which was alter increased during the time of 10th He Khenpo Tenzin Chogyal.

Küche der Mönche

Am Eingang zum Dzong (des administrativen Teiles) befindet sich diese Anwesenheitstafel der Beamten.

Direkt neben dem Dzong befand sich diese Tischlerei.

Vom Dzong gingen wir bergab zu Fuß zum Fluss, wo uns das Auto wieder aufnahm. Von hier konnten wir sehen, wie auf einem Feld geerntet wurde, ganz in der Nähe der Straße. Wir baten unseren Guide, dass wir uns dies aus der Nähe anschauen können.

 

Gesagt, getan.

Von hier war es nicht mehr weit bis nach Punakha.

 

Auszug aus der Wikipedia

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Punakha

(tibetisch transliteriert: sPu nag kha; tibetisch sPungs thang) ist eine Kleinstadt im Westen des Himalaya-Königreiches Bhutan mit ca. 7.000 Einwohnern auf einer Höhe von 1400 m. Es ist gleichzeitig ein Verwaltungsdistrikt von Bhutan. Das Klima ist aufgrund seiner relativ niedrigen Höhenlage subtropisch.

Geschichte

In Punakha verstarb im 17. Jahrhundert der in Bhutan als Staatsgründer verehrte Ngawang Namgyal. Er hatte damals die militärische Befestigung der Klöster Bhutans gegen angreifende Truppen aus Tibet veranlasst und das Land politisch geeinigt. Der einbalsamierte Leichnam von Nawang Namgyal wird im Dzong (Klosterfestung) von Punakha aufbewahrt. Dort werden ebenfalls die eingeäscherten Körper der verstorbenen religiösen Oberhäupter, der Je Khenpo, aufbewahrt. In den Wintermonaten dient der Punakha-Dzong als Residenz des amtierenden Je Khenpo.

Punakha war am 17. Dezember 1907 Ort der Krönung des ersten Königs von Bhutan, Ugyen Wangchuk. Der Urgroßvater des jetzigen Königs Jigme Singye Wangchuk war ursprünglich Talvogt (Penlop) von Tongsa. 1910 fand im Dzong von Punakha die Unterzeichnung des anglo-bhutanesischen Vertrags statt: Die Kolonialmacht Großbritannien verzichtete auf eine Einmischung in die Innenpolitik Bhutans und verlangte dafür im Gegenzug, Bhutan außenpolitisch exklusiv zu vertreten.

Aufgrund ausreichender Niederschläge und seines warmen Klimas eignet sich das Tal von Punakha ideal für den Reisanbau. In den Wintermonaten werden Kartoffeln und Gemüse angebaut. Weiträumige Abholzungen haben im Punakha-Tal seit Jahren zu besorgniserregenden ökologischen Schäden geführt.

 

Punakha Dzong (Klosterfestung)

Der Punakha-Dzong wurde 1637 durch Ngawang Namgyal als Festung gegen die einfallenden Tibeter erbaut. Er brannte 1987 teilweise ab, wurde jedoch schnell wieder komplett aufgebaut und gilt als herausragendes Beispiel ("Schmuckstück") der Klosterarchitektur Bhutans. Anders als die anderen Dzongs im Land, liegt der Punakha-Dzong nicht auf einer Hügelkuppe oder Anhöhe, sondern in einem Tal, am Zusammenfluss der beiden Flüsse Mochu und Pochu.

Am 7. Oktober 1994 wurde wiederum ein Teil des Dzongs durch ein starkes Hochwasser zerstört, er wurde jedoch mittlerweile wieder komplett restauriert. Auf aktuellen Bildern ist zudem eine neue, etwa 3m hohe Mauer am Flussufer zu erkennen, die vor zukünftigen Hochwassern schützen soll.

 

Weiter im Bericht - Punakha Dzong überspringen

 

Punakha Dzong

Pungthang Dewachenpoi Phodrang or the Punakha Dzong has five gilded pinnacles. It stands at the confluence of the Phochu and Mo Chhu rivers in Punakha. The Dzong has been damaged several times over the centuries. The raging fires in 1780, 1789, 1802, 1831, 1849 and 1986, a massive earthquake in 1897 and a devastating flash flood in 1994 almost devastated the Punakha dzong. The Dzongchhung housing the images of the Jhou and Dupthob Nagi Rinchhen was nearly washed away in the flood. The construction of the Punakha Dzong led to the revival of the 13 traditional arts of the Zorig Chusum and best craftsmen and artisans from all over the country were invited to display their skills and train a new generation of Bhutanese craftsmen as the fortress was made.
 

Abgebrochene Bienenwaben


During repairs and restoration work, Machen Lhakhang housing the sacred relics of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, Kuenrey or Congregation Hall, Tsen Chhorten housing eight sandalwood chhortens, Je Zimchung and monks' living areas, had to be reconstructed entirely while the Central Tower or Utse and the Kuenreys of the Drabi and Tshennyi divisions of the central monk body needed major restoration. Landscaping was done around dzong and the banks of the rivers were made secure to prevent any major floods in the future.

 

Blick vom Eingang ins Punakhatal

The three-storey Machen Lhakhang was built out of Cyprus wood with four entrance pillars intricately embossed with religious symbols in gold and silver. The inside of the lhakhang has been decorated with intrinsic and rich murals and frescos depicting the teachings of Lord Buddha. The images of seven incarnations of the Zhabdrung were also installed in the lhakhang. An ornate 15-foot Kudung Chhorten was installed, made of sandalwood and encased in silver and gold and adorned with jewels like corals, pearls, turquoise, and other precious stones. It was constructed by 20 craftsmen over four years. The Kuenrey, which was on the verge of collapse, was reconstructed on a grand scale. This great hall now features 12 30-foot cyprus pillars adorned in gilded brass plates embossed with elaborate religious sculpture. In the Kuenrey sits the main 35-foot image of Buddha Shakyamuni, crafted out of a mixture of five menjim (precious substances) and medicinal clay. The back wall carries images of the 16 arhats. The Buddha is flanked, on the right, by a 28-foot image of Guru Padmasambhava and, on his left, by a 28-foot image of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. Along the left wall of the Kuenrey sit 48 three-foot images of the spiritual masters of the kagyu lineage. On the right side are 48 three-foot images of dongyu zinpa (lineage holders).

 

Auf diesem Platz, im Innenhof des Dzongs finden die Festivals statt.



Time and natural elements as well as human weaknesses had thus taken their toll on this proud edifice. By the late 1980s many lhakhangs were on the verge of collapse because the wooden structures of the dzong had decayed. Precious images and manuscripts had been damaged and destroyed with losses estimated at millions of Ngultrums. It was then that His Majesty the King commanded the reconstruction of the dzong. Under His Majesty's personal supervision, Bhutan's centuries-old building and artistic traditions came together and, over the past 12 years, thousands of carpenters and wood sculptors, metal and clay sculptors, masons, painters, fresco experts, electricians, blacksmiths, goldsmiths, silversmiths, tailors, and monk artisans re-lived history as they worked on the Punakha Dzong Renovation Project.


The home ministry was given the overall responsibility with the Tenso Lapon, Dasho Wangchuk, as site supervisor. Tenso Lapon Dasho Wangchuk is the recipient of the Druk Thuksey for his outstanding contributions in the renovation of the Punakha Dzong and restoration of lhakhangs and monasteries. The five lhakhangs above the Kuenrey were all re-built and new sacred images installed: Neten Chudrung, Goengkhang, Lhamo, Rigsum Gompo, and Phurpai Lhakhang. In accordance to prophesy a 10-foot Guru Dorji Droley image was installed in the Droley Lhakhang facing the confluence of the Phochu and Mochu rivers. The Tsen Chhorten was reconstructed as a two-storey building and the Je Khenpo's residence expanded into a four-room apartment with a choekhang. All the woodwork of massive beams, joists, pillars, floors, doors and windows - in the five floors of the Utse was changed, with timber brought in from different dzongkhags. So were the wooden structures on the roof of the dukhang. New kitchen and restrooms for the monks were constructed outside the dzong to reduce the risk of fire.

Sehr steile Treppe zum Tempel.

In 1994 a catastrophic flood damaged the Dzongchung although the Jhou (Buddha image) was miraculously saved. Originally built in 1374 by the great sage Dupthop Ngagi Rinchhen, the dzongchung was restored in 1996 and consecrated by His Holiness, Geshe Gueden Rinchhen, the 69th Je Khenpo. Besides enlarging the plinth area to 1,500 square feet from the previous 590 square feet a large retaining wall, 25 to 35 feet in height, was constructed around the Dzongchhung, using stone masonry and cement mortar. More than 200 new images crafted for the dzong represent some of the finest masterpieces available in the country. The Shakyamuni Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in the Kuenrey, the life-size gilded images of Mahakala and Pelden Lhamo in the goenkhang, and dozens of larger-than-life images are unique works of art achieved through meditative focus and concentration.


Aufgang in den Dzong

Jede Treppe war für bestimmte Personen bestimmt.

In der Mitte die weltlichen, die äußeren für die Mönche. Hier mit Beispiel (Ich hoffe, das ist nicht nur Zufall.)


The Yeshey Semba (essence of primordial wisdom deity) for the numerous lhakhangs, chhortens, altars, and images in the dzong are invaluable treasures offered by His Majesty the King and the royal family, lams and trulkus, and devotees from all parts of the country. Punakha Dzong was the seat of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal's rule during which he unified the country, protected it from external invasion, strengthened the teachings of the Dharma, and established the tenets of the Bhutanese identity. On December 17, 1907, it was in this dzong that the Dratshang, Ponlops and Dzongpons, on behalf of the Bhutanese population, put their seals on the historic genja and unanimously elected Gongsar Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary monarch of Bhutan. With the completion of the project it has been enriched in religious treasures, in structural endurance, and in the beauty of traditional Bhutanese architecture and artwork by the fourth Druk Gyalpo. The Dewachenpoi Phodrang is, today, the sacred impregnable monument that Guru Rinpoche prophesied and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal established. The Dratshang performs the consecration ceremony in the Kuenrey The Pungthang Dewachenpoi Phodrang.

 



Completely restored as one of the most important monuments of Bhutan’s religious, cultural, and political history, and now enriched with new Lhakhangs, more than 200 new religious images, and numerous other treasures, the Punthang Dewachenpoi Phodrang was sanctified and its pure spirituality immortalised with the sacred rabney ceremony on the 12th, 13th and 14th day of the third Bhutanese month (May 13, 14 and 15, 2004).

His Holiness the Je Khenpo and the monks of the Dratshang (central monk body) performed the dechog khorlo dombi kechog to sanctify the majestic Dzong built on the site of a sacred nye (abode) of dechog khorlo domba, the supreme yidam (tutelary deity) of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal.

The rabney ceremony was attended by His Majesty the King, His Royal Highness the Crown Prince, Their Majesties the Queens and the royal family, Lams and Trulkus from all Buddhist traditions in Bhutan, ministers and senior government officials, officers of the Bhutanese service forces, ambassadors and dignitaries representing the international community, and the people of Bhutan.

On May 15, the rabney concluded with the unique Tashi Ngasol ceremony with His Majesty and His Holiness leading the entire gathering in an elaborate procession to circumambulate the Dzong. The procession, representing all life forms, carried the Tashi tagye (eight lucky signs), Tashi Zegye (eight precious objects), and the Geyse Nga-duen (seven treasures of a universal King), and offered prayers in the ultimate celebration of the auspicious occasion.

The religious ceremonies were conducted in the new Kuenrey of the Dzong where the Dratshang offered the Tashi Ze-gye, the Geyse Na-duen, and the Ku-Sung-Thuk-Ten Mendrel to His Majesty the King.

For the large gathering that represented all sections of the Bhutanese population, the rabney of the historic Punakha Dzong was a re-enforcement of the priorities and values that had survived and strengthened over the centuries.

The Tshennyi Lopon of the Dratshang said that, as His Majesty and the royal family, all sections of the government and the people merged in Punakha, the occasion was an auspicious and significant moment in Bhutanese history. “The restoration of the Punthang Dewachenpoi Phodrang established by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal to unify the country will ensure that our nation enjoys peace, stability, and prosperity, and that the dharma will flourish forever,” he said.

For the elderly people, it was a pilgrimage that was possible only after several centuries and an opportunity that very few devotees could ever hope to experience. Seventy-year old Pasa Zom walked all the way from Laya and, for her, it was worth every step of the five-day journey. Bidha, 77, of Paro Tsento had always regretted the fact that she had not been able to afford to go on pilgrimage to India when many of her friends did so every winter. Not any more. She now believes that she has received the most sacred blessing that she or any Buddhist could hope for.

“Our Lam Shabdrung is here,” said Gyeltshen of Shengana. “We are safe from our enemies. Just as Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal repelled our enemies, we will withstand whatever threat we face today.”

The occasion brought Bhutanese history alive for most students. “I understand that what is happening today is what happened before, as written in our school books,” said a Class 10 student, Tandin. “The only difference is that this is so much more colourful, so much more beautiful. But history will mean much more to me now.”

For the Resident Coordinator of the UN agencies, Renata Dessallien, it was an “extremely memorable experience”. “I’ve worked all over the world for the UN over many years,” she said. “This was the most memorable and spiritual occasion that I’ve had the honour to attend. All the foreign nationals here were very fortunate to participate in this and witness such a special event.”

With the government of India having contributed Nu 437 million for the restoration of the Punakha Dzong, the Talo Monastery, the Dzongchung, construction of bridges and river protection work after the 1994 floods, His Majesty the King, on behalf of the government and people of Bhutan, and His Holiness the Je Khenpo, on behalf of the Central Monk Body, expressed their deep appreciation to the government and people of India.

The Indian ambassador, Mr K S Jasrotia, who was presented a Buddha image by the Je Khenpo as a token of Bhutan’s appreciation, said that he found the solemnity of the occasion overwhelming.

“The function reflects the vitality and vibrance of Bhutan’s religious and cultural traditions,” he said. “ India and Bhutan have old historical and cultural ties and the government and people of India feel privileged and honoured to be associated with this historical occasion and with the renovation of one of the most sacred dzongs of Bhutan. We are happy to be associated with a process that is helping to perpetuate and sustain Bhutan’s rich traditions and customs.”

The ambassador said that the government and people of India were also happy that their small contribution had been useful. “The renovation of the Dzong is a monument to Indo-Bhutan cooperation,” he said. “I congratulate the people of Bhutan and wish them Tashi Delek.” For the people who were involved in the construction work it was not just a professional experience, but an opportunity to earn merit and a true blessing.

The Tenso Lapon, Dasho Wangchuck, said that the reconstruction of the Punakha Dzong had been a great opportunity for traditional craftsmen from all parts of the country to learn the skills of the zorig chusum. It was a revival of this ancient Bhutanese tradition.

“They were able to learn from the handful of real masters in these ancient crafts like wood carving, masonry, metal work, painting, and many other skills,” he said. “We now have a new generation of craftsmen and the zorig chusum tradition is already much stronger than it was a few years back. In fact, now that we have restored the Punakha Dzong to its full glory, we are prepared to undertake other major renovation work on Dzongs and Lhakhangs and other architectural heritage.”

Bhutan is endowed with ancient and historical Dzongs and numerous sacred Lhakhangs which are centuries old, representing the kingdom’s spiritual wealth and rich cultural heritage. With the changing times and modernisation, the traditional skills of the zorig chusum are required to preserve and maintain these sacred treasures. The Pungthang Dewachenpoi Phodrang is a national treasure to be preserved and cherished for the future generations.

 

The Punakha Dzong, also known as Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong (meaning “the palace of great happiness or bliss”) is the administrative centre of Punakha dzongkhag in Punakha, Bhutan. Constructed by Zhabdrung (Shabdrung) Ngawang Namgyal in 1637-38, it is the second oldest and second largest dzong in Bhutan and one of its most majestic structures. The Dzong houses the sacred relics of the southern Drukpa Kagyu school including the Rangjung Kasarpani, and the sacred remains of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and Terton Padma Lingpa. Punakha Dzong was the administrative centre and the seat of the Government of Bhutan until 1955, when the capital was moved to Thimphu.

On the hill above Rinpung Dzong is a seven storied the watchtower fortress or Ta Dzong built in 1649. In 1968 this was established as the home of the National Museum of Bhutan.

Just below Rinpung Dzong is a traditional covered cantilever bridge.

The Dzong is located at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) rivers in the Punakha–Wangdue valley. The source of the Mo chu river is in the northern hills of Lighsi and Laya in Bhutan, and in Tibet. The Po Chu River is fed by glaciers in the Lunana region of the Punakha valley. After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river is known as Puna Tsang chu or Sankosh River and flows down through Wangdiphodrang, crosses the Bhutan–India border at Kalikhola and eventually meets the Brahmaputra River.

 

In view of the healthy climate in the region, Punakha is the winter capital of Bhutan. The head of the clergy of Bhutan with his entourage of monks spend the winter in this dzong. Lilac coloured jacaranda trees grow around the dzong during the spring season.

 

According to a local legend, the sage Guru Rinpoche prophesized that “a person named Namgyal will arrive at a hill that looks like an elephant”. Zhamdrup Namgyal found the peak of the hill, which appeared in the shape of trunk of an elephant as prophesized, and built the dzong in 1637-38. Another legend tells how Zowe Palep, the architect, had a vision in a dream after the Zhamdrup Namgyal ordered him to sleep under a small structure which contained a statue of the Buddha, known as Dzong Chug (small dzong). In his dream, prompted by the psychic powers of the Zhamdrup, he had a clear vision of a palace for Guru Rinpoche. The vision was imprinted on the architect's mind, enabling him to conceive the plan for the Dzong without putting the vision on paper and to built it. On the basis of the dream vision of the architect, the building of the Dzong was started in 1637 and completed in 1638, at the place where the Dzong Chug (small dzong), had existed. During this period, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal became the first religious-political leader, following his concerted efforts to unify the country into one unit as Bhutan. The dzong was consecrated in the name of Pungthang Dechen Phodrang. In 1639, a commemorative chapel was erected to house the arms seized from the Tibetans who were defeated by the Bhutanese on this spot. Zhabdrung also set up a monastic order with 600 monks (brought from Cheri Gompa of upper Thimpu valley) and he lived here till his death. The spire at the top of the utse (the dzong’s central tower or the main tower) was added in 1676 by Gyaltsen Tenzin Rabgye–the abbot of the dzong. Further additions were made during the period 1744 to 1763, when Sherab Wangchuk was the ruler. A large Thangka known as chenma (great) thoundral of the Zhabdrung was donated to the Dzong by the Desi (ruler). This thangka is displayed during the Tsechu festival held once a year here. The Seventh Dalai Lama donated the brass roof for the dzong.

 

Wangchuk Monarchy is currently ruling the country. This monarchy was established in 1907. The same year, Punakha Dzong was the site of the coronation of Ugyen Wangchuck (or Deb Nagpo) as the first King of Bhutan. At that time, Punakha was the capital of Bhutan. Three years later, a treaty was signed at Punakha whereby the British agreed not to interfere in Bhutanese internal affairs and Bhutan allowed Britain to direct its foreign affairs. From 1744 to 1763, the dzong was enlarged substantially during the rule of the 13th desi, when Sherab Wangchuk was the chief abbot of Bhutan. Several fires between 1750 and 1849 caused damages to the Dzong. In the 1897 earthquake, the dzong was severely damaged and also suffered numerous fires. In 1986, the dzong was partially destroyed by fire.

 

The Dzong is part of the Drukpa school of Mahayana Buddhism in Bhutan. It is the second oldest and most majestic dzong in Bhutan built at the orders of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. It is a six-storied structure with a central tower or Utse at an average elevation of 1,200 metres (3,900 ft) with a scenic, mountainous background. The materials used in building the Dzong consisted of compacted earth, stones and timber in doors and windows. The Dzong was constructed as an “embodiment of Buddhist values” and was one of the 16 dzongs built by the Shabdrong during his rule from 1594 to 1691. The Dzong measures 180 metres (590 ft) in length with a width of 72 metres (236 ft) and has three docheys (courtyards). The defensive fortifications built in the dzong to protect it from enemy attacks consist of a steep wooden draw stairway and a heavy wooden door that is closed at night. After the Dzong suffered damages due to a fire, a large prayer hall was added in 1986. Administrative offices of the dzong, a very large white washed chorten and a bodhi tree are located in the first courtyard. Also seen in the same courtyard, on the far left, are a mound of stones and a chapel dedicated to the queen of nāgas (snake spirits). The residential quarters of monks are located in the second courtyard, with the utse intervening in between the first and the second courtyards. There are two historic halls in this courtyard; one of Ugyen Wangchuk, who subsequently became the King and another hall where the King was decorated in 1905 with the Order of the Knight Commander of the Indian Empire by John Claude White. The third courtyard is at the southern most end of the dzong where the remains of Pema Lingpa and Zhanbdrung Ngawang Namgyal are preserved.Machey Lakhang ('machey' literally means "sacred embalmed body") in the third courtyard has the well preserved embalmed body of Zhabdrung. This Lakhang was rebuilt in 1995. The casket containing the embalmed body is not opened at all. However, the place is visited by the King and the Je Khenpo mainly to seek blessings before assuming their offices.

Flash floods, resulting from glacial lake outburst flooding in the upper reaches of the valley, are a common occurrence in the Mo Chu and Po Chu rivers, and in the past, caused flooding and damage to the Dzong, especially in 1957, 1960 and 1994. Fires and earthquakes have also further added to the problem. In 1996, flash floods in the Po Chu river damaged the large chorten in the precincts of the Dzong and caused several deaths.

After a major refurbishing work carried out in the "zorig chusum tradition" (an ancient tradition of crafts in wood carving, masonry, metal work, painting, and several other skills), the Dzong now has several new Lhakhangs, over 200 new religious images, and several other treasures. A consecration ceremony known as the “Rabney ceremony” performed by His Holiness the Je Khenpo and the monks of the Dratshang (central monk body) was held from May 13 to 15, 2004, corresponding to the 12th to 14th day of the third Bhutanese month. The restoration works were largely funded by the Government of India and the Dzong stands fully restored to its past glory. After complete restoration of the Dzong to its old glory, notable images, statues and thangkas are displayed in the Dzong. These include murals depicting life story of Buddha done during the rule of the second druk desi. Large gilded statues of Buddha, Guru Rinpoche and Zhabdrung which belong to mid 18th century, and gilded panels on pillars are also here.

A covered wooden cantilever bridge crossing the Mo Chu river was built together with the Dzong in the 17th century. This bridge was washed away by a flash flood in 1957. In 2006, work started on a new wooden cantilever bridge in the traditional style, with a free span of 55 metres (180 ft). It was completed in 2008.In 2008, after completion of the cantilever bridge, the new bridge was hailed as a celebration of “100 years of Wangchuck Monarchy in 2008 and to the coronation of His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck in the Punakha Dzong”.Thus, the Dzong has been the venue for coronation of all the kings of Bhutan. A memorial honouring the 23 people who died in the dzong in the glacial floods in 1994 has also been erected just outside the dzong

 

 

Fortsetzung Reisebericht:

Das Hauptgebäude und Restaurant unserer Hotelanlage, zu der auch viele geräumige Bungalows gehörten.

 

                Fortsetzung Bhutan                         Zurück zur Übersicht    

 

 

17./18.09.2010

Flug nach Delhi

18.9. - 19.09.2010

Delhi

20.09.2010

Delhi - Paro - Thimphu

21.09.2010

Thimphu -Bumthang

 

22.09.2010

Bumthang

23.09.2010

Bumthang

Festival

(kein Bericht nur Bilder)

24.09.2010

Bumthang - Tal der Kraniche

 

25.09.2010

nach Punakha

26.09.2010

Punakha - Thimphu

27.09.2010

Thimph Paro

28.09.2010

1. Trekkingtag

 

29.09.2010

2. Trekkingtag

30.09.2010

3. Trekkingtag

1.10.2010

4. Trekkingtag

2.10.2010

5. Trekkingtag und Paro

 

3.10.2010

 Paro Tigernest

Wanderung zum Tigernest

 (kein Bericht nur Bilder)

4.10.2010

Rückflug nach Delhi

Zurück zur Übersicht