LAKE MANYARA

NATIONAL PARK

Published by Tanzania National Parka in co-operation with the African Wildlife Foundation

The large variety of mammals, reptiles and birds in the Park and the different types of vegetation, a/l within a small area make Lake Manyara a diverse and particularly

memorable place to visit

INTRODUCTION .

Fmm which ever diRectlon you approach~ I.:se MB11J'B1B National Park, the first view Is speClBcu/iu. When you approach it from tile east the Rift Va,1Iey escarpment looms on the horizon forming an impressive backdrop to the lake. If you come from the west and pause at the top of the escarpment the Park lies in a green strip below you, the lake glistening in the sunlight

You can easily pick out. the mosaic of the Parks different habitats. In the tall trees of the ground water forest monkeys leap from branch to branch, on the slope of the escarpment elephants stand in the shade of a baobab. In the acacia woodland lions lie draped along the branches of umbrella trees, in the pools along the lake shore the hippos wallow, and in the lake itself wade colourful flamingos.

. Your purchase of this guide book and visit to Lake Manyara National Park will help to preserve this fascinadng place 8S a/l proceeds go directly towards the conservation of the Park. I hope that your time here is enjoyable and rewarding.

.

DavidBabu

Acting Director Tanzania National Parks


LAKE MANYARA NATIONAL PARK -~-~-~--~~-_ .. -~.--~----------

As you approach the village of Mto WB Mbu (Mnsqulto Creek) from the direction of Arusha the outstanding landmark Is the speotacular rift wall. Here where the Maasai plains give way to the cultivated uplands of Mbululand, lies Lake Manyara National

Park, nestled at the base of the escarpment

The Pa·rk derives its name from the Maasal word 'manyara', which is the name for the plant Euphorbia tirucalli. The Maasai use this plant to grow livestock stockades. Eventually 'manyara' will produce a stock­ proof hedge which is more durable than any made of cut thorn branches. There is a specimen of. Euphorbia tirucalli at the entrance gate.

The Great Rift Valley is part of a fault in the earth's crust which stretches 8,000 kms from Turkey to the mouth of the Zambezi River in Mozambique. The fault is so massive that when astronauts landed on the moon the Rift Valley was clearly visible to them! In the Manyara area there is no eastern wall to the Rift Valley as there is in Kenya. Here the flattish country falls very gently into a depression, while in Kenya the valley has walls to both east and west

The types of vegetation which occur in the Park are related to the geology of the area. The northern part of the Park, nearest the entrance, is composed mainly of volcanic rock which, being porous, allows many streams of clear water to flow out of the base of the rift wall. Further south, around Msasa River, the volcanic rock gives way to ancient crystalline rock, which is hard and non-porous allowing fewer springs and streams to emerge. Those that do - the Ndala, Bagayo and Endabash - cascade down/the entire face of the wall when flowing.

Despite the fact Lake Manyara National Park is only 330 sq km in area - of which about 230 sq km are lake - it contains a large variety of habitats: the rift wall, the ground water forest, acacia woodland, areas of open grassland, the lake shore, swamp and the lake itself. Due to the variety of habitats the Park is able to support a large number of species. This guide book explains which ones are most likely to be found hi particular areas. Over 380 species of birds, some migratory, have been recorded in the Park.

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NOTES FOR VISITORS ----.-.---.------------

Lake Manyara National Park is an ideal size for ~ day trip, You can leave camp or the lodge early, picnic at one of the site'~~ aliG the, return ~owards evening. The Park roads are suitable for saloon cars alth:::'ugh sC/rile of the tracks Blre for dry so..ason use only. (The long dry season is usually ftom June to September and the short one from January to February.) In order to get the most from your visit io ~,llanyara, drive slowly, take some of the loop roads and spend time looking at the different types of trees and watching animals. It is recommended that you take a guide with you, because they know the roads well and where the wildlife is at any particular time. They can therefore plan an exciting game drive. Surprisingly enough, it is easy to drive past a tree fun of sleeping lion~ •. u~less you are trained through constant practice to spotthem~ •

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AS THERE IS ONLY ONE ENTRANCE/EXIT TO THE PARK.

ALL TRAILS MUST START AND END AT THE GATE

WHERE AND WHAT TO WATCH _

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The mornings and evenings are the best times to observe birds and animals. During the heat of the day much of the wildlife rests under cover. Look under trees and bushes for the pricked ears of some animal raising its head and also keep a watch out in trees for the dangling tail of a lion as it lies on a branch. Tick birds may indicate the presence of buffalo in bush country, and vultures Circling above can indicate a kill that could be worth investigating.

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When you first see a J'ride of lions or a group of zebras, individuals look much the same. If you spend a-,.few moments watching, you will begin to see individual differences. No two zebras have the same stripe pattern. lions can be told apart gy scars on their faces and the pattern ofthei( whisker'spots. baboons gave tails·of

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various shapes and individual elepha~ can be recognised by the diffe~nt patterns

of nicks or damage to their ears and the ,size and shape of their tusks. ~.

There is a large variety,of tree species in Lake Manyara National Park. As you qrive through the Park you can see whicr different species are prevalent in different habitats. In order to help with iden,tification small numbered tags have been attached to certain individual trees. There is a full nu'i'1'Ibered list of these trees on page 38 and for those illustrated in the guide book the correspOnding numbers are given.

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GROUND WATER FOREST

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As you enter the Park you will find yourself surrounded by the tall trees of the ground water forest. In many ways this type of forest Is reminiscent of tropical rain forest with its lush green vegetation lit by shafts of sunlight and the chorus of bird and other animal sounds echoing from the trees. However, as Its name suggests, the forest is in fact supported by ground water, not high rainfall. The high water table is fed by seepage from the volcanic rock of the rift wall.

As you begin to look around, you will notice that there are different types of vegetation growing at three separate levels. These are the tall trees, the intermediate level shrubs, and the grasses, reeds and other flowering plants at the lower level.

The six most commonly found trees are illustrated on the previous page. Unfortunately only one, the WILD FIG (13), has a common name. Look at the trees' shapes, leaves and bark colours to help tell them apart. The wild fig has a pale bark and the fruit is smaller with more seeds than the edible fig. The fruits ripen in December and are eaten by a variety of animals and birds. Baboons will feed up in the trees, whilst below elephants ~ill carefully pick up the tallen fruits with their trunks.

At the intermediate level grow a variety of flowering plants such as species of hibiscus, abutilons, and wild ginger. The reed Cyperus a/ternifo/ius is very common on drier ground beneath the trees.

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In some places the water table is too high for the successful growth of forest trees: in such areas the forest gives way to swampy glades in which tall reeds of Typha and Cyperus immensus predominate, and on the fringes of these glades a star grass is found. In much drier areas there is less vegetation and you will see both the strange 'SAUSAGE' TREE (14) and the tamarind tree (31). IntElrestingly the sausage tree is largely pollinated by fruit bats.

Elephants are frequently seen in the deep forest or In the marshy glades, but the most oommon animal is the baboon.

3 Trichilea emetica

4 Croton macrostachys 6 Antfatfs toxicaria

8 Btidella inicrantha

10 Rauvollia caffra 13 rlCUS sytiamorus 14 KigeHa africana

DETAIL OF FRUITS & lEj~VES

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A BABOON troop consists of between 30 -100 individuals, and is made up of females and their young, adolescent animals of both sexes and CA number of adult males. At adolescence males leave the troops into which they were born and 'transfer' into another troop. Males can"be distinguished from females by their larger size, thick mane and large canine teeth. At first, females carry their young on their stomachs, but after a monih the young infant rides jockey style on the mother's back near the tail. Female baboons form dominance hierarchies, in which the members of the same family assume similar ranks. High-ranking fem;~les have greater opportunity to get the best food and sometimes have more offspring. The hierarchies of males are not so clear cut and depend less on maternal rank than on such factors as fighting ability and age. Females in oestrus develop large pink swellings on their rears which signal receptivity.

Much of- their diet consists of grasS; ~oots, fruit and insects but they can and do hunt and kill the young of il11pala and other antelopes. A single baboon troop can range in an area as large as 10 sq km, but the ranges in Manyara are likely to be much smaller.

PLEASE 00 N.OT FEED THE BABOONS

'I -,- THEY CAN BITE AND INFUCT VERY

SERIOUS WOUNDS.

Tallhape can help IdenIIy IndIvIduaIa

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Another monkey seen in the forest, from which they rarely stray, is the BLUE MONKEY. When seen at a distance, especially in the shade, they appear black but are in fact a dark bluish grey. The fur on t,e faGe is longer and slightly lighter coloured. Blue monkeys live in fami,ly troops l f about 4 -- 6, but sometimes up to a dozen animal::; are found together. They feed in the morning and late afternoon in the higher tiers of the forest, descending lower during the heal of the day. Their diet consists mostly of the leaves and fruits of the forest treas. A trc.~)p may have a territory of up to 2 sq km which they mark with a sharp cry ('nyah) at sunrise and sunset

Although bird life is comparatively scarce in the forest, possibly as a result of predation on eggs and fledglings by the monkeys, you are likely to see and hear the SILVERY-CHEEKED HORNBlLL This large bird, with its conspicuous casqued bill, flies with creaking wing beats and often sits at the top of trees making a raucous noise.

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MAHAll PA NYATI

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Impala are seen either in breeding herds of females and young, ~ach shepherded by a territorial male, or in all-male groups of from 10 - 50 animals. The male groups are composed of immature males that have yet to gain a territory and prime males which have lost one. Only if a male possl;:sses.8 tal 'itory does he have the opportunity to breed. Bachelor herds are typically fi')und close to the breeding herds and may even graze with the females.

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The territorial male can be identified by his herding of females and frequent vigorous chasing of bachelors away from the females. From time to time top-ranking bachelors challenge territorial males, leading to serious fights. If the territory owner loses, he forfeits his place and he then becomes one of the bachelor males. The competition for females is so intense that few impala manage to hold a territory for more than three months at a time.

Being browsers as well as grazers, impala are seldom far from cover. They are constantly on the alert as they are a favourite prey for many of the large predators, particula,rly leop~rds. Alarmed impala seem to explode in all directions, in great soaring bounds, making it hard for a cat to single out a victim.

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About half a kilometre after crossing the Marera River bridge you will come to a fork in the road. It is suggested that you turn left in the direction of Mahali pa Nyati, which means 'place of the buffalo', and continue through the remaining forest until you come to a large, open, grassy area. The predominant trees are WILD MANGOS (18), and many animals eat their fruits. Although buffalos live in this area, they are rarely seen from the road because they keep to the inaccessible edge of the Simba River. You are likely to see herds of impa/a, zebras and a few wildebeest.

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One of the most graceful of East Africa's antelopes is the IMPALA. It has a rufous coat, which is dark above and blends into fawn with a black stripe bordering the white rump patches. Males only have horns. Both sexes have. scent glands concealed in tufts of black wiry hair just above the heels. There are also sebaceous glands in the forehead v.'ith which adult males scent-mark bushes and

'trees by rubbing their I:leads against them.

Impela stand about orie metre at the shoulder and males weigh about 70 kgs while females weigh about 50 kgs.

Another species which lives in groups is the BURCHELL'S ZEBRA. Although zebras are usually associated with open plains country, they are found in Manyara wherever there is a stretch of open grassland. Zebras live in either family units containing up to a dozen females and young, or bachelor herds of mainly immature males. Each family is controlled by a stallion, which defends it both against potential rivals and against predators. Foals 84'e born in all months except the dry sea9Olll.

The stripe pattern of every zebra is different, making. . ..,jndividualrecognition comparatively easy. Zebras are very conspicuous in·· broad daylight; but aLoight, dawn and dusk - the hours when most predation occurs - the stripes seem to blend together and zebras become as hard to see as grey or tan animals.

As you drive through the open grassy area you will pass through glades of doum palms (25), wild date palms (23) and fever trees (21). The track to your left will lead you to the hippo pool.

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HiPP-O POOL

The hippo pool is part of the Simba River. With its iarge coHaction of waler birds present and the lake shimmering in the background, it is a lovely spot to pause for a while.

 AT THE HIPPO POOL

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HIPPOPOTAMUSES are large animals and weigh on average 2-3000 kgs. Their bodies can overheat easily and need to be cooled in water, w~ich is why they spend most of the day submerged. They swim very well and dive for periods of about three minutes before coming up to breathe noisily. At night, and occasionally on wet overcast days, hippos leave the water to graze the vegetation. They can eat up to 60 kgs in a night, mostly feeding on a sedge which thrives on the alkaline flats close

to the lake shore. '

Females give birth to a single calf either on land or in the water. The calf is suckled on land for the first few weeks and then in the water. Mothers are very protective and teach their young to swim and wallow.

As you watch hippos you will most likely hear them grunting and might see them spreading their dung with vigorous wagging movements of their short strong tails. You may notice scars on the backs of the males. These are inflicted by teeth- of other males during fights. it is safe to watch the hippos from the bank as they bask in the water, but they should be avoided if found on land. Hippos are usually placid creatures but can become very aggressive if an intruder gets between them and their pool.

1 -Grev heron

2 ~-he8ded heron 3 Greet whMIt egret

•• CIIlIe egret

5 Maratiou stork

8 )'eIIow-billed -.aork , 7 S8dd1e-bilIi$liOrk

8 AbdIm's slor1< 'j

9 Crowned crane

10 FiIh eegIe .

11 AfrIc8n spoonbill 12 Secr8d ibIa

13 Glossy ibis

14 Hadadai~ 15 White Pelican

1:6 Pink-backed pe4lcan 17 Spur-wing-tgauee

18 Egyptian gOOOIlt

, "~"19 Knob-billed duck .,,~.

20 HoItIntot teal 21 Red-billed tB8I

22 Yellow-billed duck

23 Fulvous whislling duck

24 Whia-f&ced whiatling duck

There is a track which leads from the pool and rejoins the road however if it is wet , you will have to retrace your path back to where you left the road.

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25 Jacana

26. Greater cormorant 27 Water thicknee

28 UttIe slint

29 AVOCfil

30 Black-winged sIiIt 31Greenshank ! '12 BIacksmi1h plover 33 SpiJrwing plover 34 Crowned plover 35 Pratincole

36 African pied wagtail


Also here are the YELLOW-BARKED FEVER TREES (21) which always grow in . damp places and were thought by early explorers to cause malaria. The trunks of this species of acacias are often gnarled and knotted a few feet above the ground where elephants have tried to remove the bark.

Fever trees exude a gum which is eaten by VERVET MONKEYS. The vervet is a small monkey with a black face, white cheek tufts and grey fur. It is commonly found in wooded areas of the Park. Male vervets are easily identified by their azure blue scrotums. Vervets feed on insects, fruit, leaves and seeds anti may also eat young birds and eggs. Their social structure is similar to baboong;--altn'ough vervet groups are territorial and defend their ranges against nearby groups. Vervets form a favpurite prey of leopards. which are found in tne Park. \

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The next river to cross is Mto wa Mkindu. There are tracks along both sides of the river, which should be used in the dry season only. The WILD DATE PALMS (23) which are: so common in this area give their name to the stream which flows from the escarpment to the lake. For some years the wild date palm remains in the form of a low-growing mass of fronds but eventually it grows;; into an elegant palm. Interestingly palms, unlike trees, have only one growing point, which means that the

., palm will die if this is damaged.

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As you cross the Mchanga (or Sand) River pause on the bridge. You may be rewarded by a glimpse of a MONITOR UZARD sunning himself on the bank. Monitor lizards are found in damp marshy places where they I feed on frogs, fish. carrion and eggs. and fledglings of jl. ground nesting birds .. '

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After Sand River you will soon leave the cover 6f the forest and find yourself in light bush country where you may see a GROUND HORNBlLL, which is a large turkey-like bird. Although these big birds spend much of their time on the ground feeding on insects and reptiles, they will fly slowly and heavily to perch in a tree, at which time their white primary feathers are conspicuous. At a distance the call of the ground hornbill sounds very like human voices in conversation and a Maasai folk story translates the sound as a man speaking to a woman saying "I w~mt more cows" to which she replies. "You'll die before you get them",

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Two other specie~ of hombill are common in this area. V0N DER DECKEN'S HORNBILL, with its black and white plumage, is often seen. perched on a tree or in undulating flight. Superficially similar to Von der Decken~s is the GREY HORNBILL, although the bill is duller and the plumage mqre drab. Both species live almost entirely on fruit and berries but they m~y eat an occasional grasshopper.

MSASA RIVER

The road has now rejoined the main park road and the next bridge you come to spans the Msasa River. The river is named a1\er the local name for the small tree,

Cordia ova/is, which has broad rough i\?JlV8S.

HAMERKOPS or hammer-headed storks are frequently seen in this area. They are brown birds with dark bills and feet and can easily be distinguished by their odd hammer-shaped head. Many legends surround these birds, and ,it is considered unlucky to kill one. They live on frogs and I.>ther aquatic creatures. Their nests are very large structures of sticks and grass built in the fork of a tree, often near water.

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On the left, after'the bridge, is a loop road to a picnic site by the lake shore. Many of the birds found at the hippo pool can also be seen here.

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Here, as in many parts of the Park, you will p~bably catch a glimpse of WARTHOGS feeding on their knees, or running away with their tails in the air. Warthogs are s~rictly diurnal, spending the night in burrows which they take over from other animals. They often back into the hole, so as to be ready for any attack made on them by predators. They are usuall" sMn in family groups with 2 - 4 young, but sometimes the previous year's young stay in the farl)ily. Old males, recognised by their impressively curved tusks, may become solitary.

This is a fine spot from which to ob~e PIED KINGFISHERS as they hover over the Msasa River delta wiih their sharp eyes alert for the movement of fish in the water below. On spotting suitable prey the kingfisher plunges into the water, and if successful, carries the food to the branch of a nearby tree, where it can quickly gulp the fish down.

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If you see lines of reddish-coloured ants crossing the road they are probably safari ants. These are extremely fierce creatures with sharp pincers and several hundred of them can easily and quickly devour a small animal. They are particularly active during the rains and at this time elephants are said to avoid the ground water forest to avoid getting ants up their trunks!

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WHITE and PINK-BACKED PEUCANS are also seen here. The white pelican is larger than the pink-backed but has, despite Its name. a pinkish tinge. Both species live mainly on fish which they catch In their pouches ancl then awaIlow with an upwards toI8 of the bilL PelIc8n8 are sIrong ftler8 and oft8n I08f' on thoon8I8 above the rift wall eecarpment

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Depending on the level of the lake you may see FLAMINGOS. The lesser flamingo can be distinguished from the greater, not only by its smaller size but also by its very dark red beak and more crimson colour of its body. Lesser flamingos make up 90% of the East African flamingo population. They feed on algae whilst the greater flamingos eat small crustacea, which they sieve through their bills. These different diets mean that the two species can coexist Flamingos move about in large flocks from one East African soda lakato another, so it is not possible to say with certainty when they will be at Manyara When present, they provide an unforgettable spectacle, not only when feeding in the lake but also as they fly with their long necks and legs outstretched.

BUFFALOS are often found near the lake shore and can be seen in mixed breeding herds, as single males living alone or in bachelor herds. They weigh up to 775 kgs, measure about one and a half metres at the shoulder and carry massive, heavily bossed horns.

Buffalos are exclusively grazers and spend more time feeding at night than during thE day. This may be because they have a poor ability to regulate their body temperaturE and must therefore avoid too much activity oiL ring the heat of the day. As they need te drink regularly and are especially fond of wdlowing, buffalos tend to stay close te water.

A buffalo herd is a cohesive unit with a well established social hierarchy, each anima knowing its status in relation to another. Females form the core of the herd and bull! leave and rejoin the herd at will. The bulls' movements seem to be linked to matin~ behaviour. In the dry season "when fewer females come on heat, older bulls leave ane form bachelor herds.

When lions are bold-enough to approach a herd, the bulls form a ring with the cow~ and calves in the centre. Usually they are able to drive the lions away. Although cow~ and calves are occasionally taken, it is, paradoxically the lethargic old bulls that arE easiest for the lions to kill.

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You should be able to distinguish between the sexes and ages on the basis of horn shape and size. You might see evidence of the dominance hierarchy found in males, by watching to see if certain animals have priority over others when feeding.


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LAKE MANYARA NATIONAL PARK

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.• Road Impaaable H river In flood

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- - - 4 wheel drive only

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- - -. - Lake shore

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- ACACIA WOODLAND      

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As you Ieav~ the lakeshore$Outh-west of the M~ River you wttI soon pass through an area of extensive acacia woodland. This is composed of the UMBRELLA or FLAT-TOPPED ACACIA TREE (32), which is easily recognised by its umbrella-like. thorny canopy and gnarled. twisted branches. The predominant grass growing beneath them is a star grass Cynodon plectistachyus.

It is in these trees that you may see a lion resting during the heet of the day, apmwled out lazily on a stout branch. Manyam lions take to the trees. but ~ .. ~ .. knows why - it could be beca •.• the trees In e&sy to climb and aUow .tJttmll .• get away from biting m. Of herds of buffalos and elephants.

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UON prides consist of a core of related females: mothers, daughters, sisters, cousins and aunts. These groups of females have a territorial range within which they capture prey and raise tlIeir cubs. Cubs of different females are often born close together and are raised by several females. The cubs can suckle from any lactating female and if a mother dies, her orphans will be adopted by the other females.

The role of male lions is very different A band of male lions, often brothers, have a range which they mark, patrol and defend. Within this range may live one or more prides and the males will join these prides and mate with any receptive females. The more prides they hold, the more cubs the males are likely to sire. In Manyara two or more male lions control several prides of females.

if you find a pride of lions they will most likely be resting, as lions spend a large part of their day sleeping. If they a~e awake, they may be licking, grooming, playing or grooting one another. Lions greet whenever they meet after being separated or upon waking. Greeting behaviour is easy to recognise and consists of rubbing heads together 01' even the length of the body. A cub greets its mother by rubbing the top of it£\ hood, and then its wbole body and tail, under her chin.

Uom. usually hunt at night but you may be lucky enough to see a kill during the day. A hiQh pmportion of hunts are unsuccessful but they are nevertheless fascinating to wswh, particularly if several members of the pride are hunting together. The main pray species in Manysl"a are buffalos and zebras. although lions will also 181<8 wi!d~ and other smaller animals.

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Throughout the acacia woodland you will see bushes of a species of gardenia called JOVE'S THUNDERBOLT TREE. These bushes with th~ir pale spiky branches, waxy, white swoet­ smelling flowers and strangely ridged fruit, are eaten by elephants.

Another plant that is common is the sodom apple, recognised by its small purple flowe~ and round yellow fruit This plant is a pernicious weed in cultivated land and is rarely eaten by bPOwsifig animals.

Throughout Lake Manyara National Park you will see large sculpted earth,mounds which are built by TERMITES. Termites are sometimes called white ants, which is incorrect as they are neither white nor ants but related to cockroaches.

Termite mounds vary in shape and size depending on the different soil types and

climatic conditions for any given area. They are made up of a system of galleries which serve as air-conditioners keeping the temperature and 'humidity at a constant level suitable for their vulnerable thin-skinned inhabitants.

Termites are able to feed on wood because of an interesting partnership. Small organisms called protozoa live in a termite's gut and are able to breakdown the cellulose in the wood into a form which can be digested by the termite.

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Termite colonies are divided into castes 01 queen, king, 5.,ldiers and 'it"Jorkers, each with a specific function to perform and all interdependent The queen is t'1e largest inhabitant and may reach a length of 20 ems. The passages of the mound are too small for her to enter and she spenas her life in a central chamber laying eggs, as many as 10,000 per day, and being fed by the workers. The king is the only sexually active male and the three million or so inhabitants of the colony are all their offspring.

During the rains vast numbers of termites fly out from the mounds in the hopes of founding a new colony. They are eaten by many different animals including man and only those pairs that find shelter underground manage to establish themselves.

Another species which lives in colenies, and is often found in old termite mounds, is the BANDED MONGOOSE. Banded mongooses are stocky little animals with wiry coats marked by dark vertical bands. They live in packs of up to 30 individuals and can often be seen following one another very closely as they move like a huge snake winding through the bush. They sometimes follow the trails of elephants and buffalos and eat the Qung beetles and millipedes which they find in the piles of droppings. Banded mongooses also eat snails, lizards, mice, grasshoppers and locusts.

The pack roams large areas looking for food and individuals keep in contact with each other by continually ,twittering. There are usually several dens within a pack's territory between which they wander. Banded mongooses are diurnal and always return to a den at night Young are kept in the den until they are old enough to forage and it is believed that they may be suckled by several females.

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NDALA RIVER _

Although elephants are to be seen throughout the Park they are most often seen in the dry season digging for water in the Ndala River. If the river is in flood your game drive may be shorter than you anticipated, because there is no bridge here!

The AFRICAN ELEPHANT is larger than its Asiatic cousin and has a sloping as opposed to a straight back and much larger ears. If you see a herd of elephants it IS most likely to be either an all male group or a family unit Uke the baboon and the lion, the social system of the elephant is based on close family kin. Daughters remain in the same herd as their mothers and grandmothers, whilst males leave once they reach adolescence. The young males then frequent bachelor groups which are not permanent and often change composition.

If you watch a female herd you may be able to spot the matriarch. This is usually the oldest and largest animal who acts as the leader, particularly during defence when she will, govern the course of action. Elephants can live for 60 years and a female may give birth by the time she is 12 years old, after a gestation period of 22 months. When a baby elephant is born, only 80 cms high, the whole herd is, attentive to it and will be very protective, especially against lions. Elephants use their trunks for 5e.\'8ral purposes; feeding, drinking and greeting otheq;.

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Males within a population have a dominance hierarchy. At certain times of the year a dominant male exhibits a phenomenon known as 'musth', (pronounced must), which is apparently a highly sexual state. This can be recognized by a profuse seci'8tion from the temporal gland at the side of the head and a continuous dribbling of urlf)8. Such males usually associate with herds when a.female is in season.

21


~ can be recogniled indiYidually by looking 8th ~ of theIf-­ md nickB in the outline of their 8BIS. Both male and female AfrIcan •••••• :M\lG tuSkI and tusk length and circumference can also be used to <Wermine the egeof an animal.

FIELD ESTIMATION Of AGING

(after Laws)

You may notice in this part of the Park the impact elepl,ants have on the woodlands. This is mainly noticeable in the dry season because in the wet months. of the year, when the vegetation is lush, elephants do not feed on the trees. During the dry season, when grasses are short and unpalatable, the elephants turn to the trees to

supplement their diet

;

Although the Manyara elephants are quite placid, it is still dangerous to approach them too closely, especially if they show signs of aggression such as head shaking or spreading of the ears. Always give them right of way if you encounter them on the

road. ' " !

30

BAGAYO RIVER

';. '. L~ ---- I\.~lf r

rrr- /~r 'd ,"~2
,",- "I;"

:~. ~ '- ' ..

After you cross the Bagayo River the road comes close to the rift escarpment The steeply rising, boulder-strewn slope is covered with different species of trees than those you have been seeing, and in March the white flowers of the wait-a-bit thorn decorate the slopes.

The most noticeable trees are the majestic BAOBABS (36), with their large silvery trunks, spindly branches and gourd-like fruits.

These fruits can be made into a variety of useful utensils and drinking vessels. The young leaves are edible by humans. The wood, which has a long fibre, is made mto ropeS and woven articles. As many baobab trees are hollow, they frequently

, serve as reservoirs for rain watar and are . often the site of wild bee hives or nesting hombills.

On the other side of the rosd near the lake you may see a pair of CROWNED CRANES. These slate-gray, whiW and chestnut birds, with their distinctive gold crest, are the national emblem of Uganda, and found throughout EastAmca.

31


THE LAKE

On the road between the Bagayo and Endabash Rivers you are at a slightly higher elevation and can get a good view of Lake Manyara. The lake lies at an altitude of 945 m above sea level and is on average 390 sq km in area, of which 230 sq km are in the Park. After the formation of the Rift Valley, some two or three million years ago, streams began )to cascade down the rift wall, and, as there was no outlet began to form a lake in depression below. The lake was at its largest about a quarter of a million years ago .

Even today the lake level varies considerably, in dry years it is possible to drive across. and in wet years the water level has even covered the road. If the lake is quite close to the road you will probably notice the alkaline smell of the soil and will see the deposits of soda forming a crisp crust where it has partly dried.

Although fishing in the lake is illegal within the Park boundaries, it is done by the local people on the remainder of the lake. Both catfish and bream (Tilapia) are present and like all the large Rift Valley lakes, Manyara has its own species of bream.

REEDBUCK are often seen in small groups by the lake shore and might be confused with impala. The Bohor reedbuck can be identified by its uniform sandy-red colour and a very bushy tail with a white 'flag'. The males have short forward curving horns. Reedbuck are difficult to see when they are lying down in a patch of tall grass or reeds, but if alacmed th~ will give a shrill whistle and run off with a typical 'rocking horse' gait

As you drive towards the Endabash River YO\:I will pass the first set of hot springs in the Park Ma;i Mato Ndogo, which means 'sm"'all hot water'. The water. here is about 40°C and is fresh, although emissions of gases taKe place. The water, which Is norma! ground water, is heated as it circulates at great depth, through fractures in the rocks which were formed by the Rift Valley faulting. Surprisingly, various forms' of algae have established themselves in the water not far from the spring head.

32

\

ENDABASH RIVER

1

In the dry season the Endabash River area is frequented by several of the animals in the Park.

Because GIRAFFES feed almost exClusively on the tender leaves of acacia trees, they are rarely seen anywhere but in areas where these trees grow. The species of giraffe occurring in Manyara is the Maasai giraffe, which has irregular roseate or

star-shaperj markings, which cover almost the entire body.

Giraffes have individually distinct patterns - the neck is a good place to look at the markings and recogllise individuals. Giraffes are able to share their habitat with a wide range of creatures because they do not compete for food with grazing animals, and feed at a different height from

most other browsers.

For all its great length the giraffe's neck has only seven vertebrae, just as in man. A male giraffe weighs about 5-800 kgs and stands three and a half metres at the shoulders: the female is about one metre shorter and correspondingly lighter.

If you watch giraffes walk you will notice that they have a characteristic gait in which they bring both limbs on the san. ~ side forward together.

33


MAJI MOTO

The hot springs, Maji Moto, are hotter than those at Maji Moto Ndogo. The water is about 60°C and reputedly will cook an egg in 30 minutes. Again there are interesting algae growing in the springs.

If you turn and look at the escarpment you may catch sight of a pair of KLlPSRINGERS. These thick-set, rough­ coated antelopes are about the size of goats and are adapted for leaping from rock to rock. They stand on the very tips of their narrow, almost cylindrical hooves.

Klipsringers are monogamous and mate for several years, living in their own territory which they mark using scent glands near their eyes. If you see three together, one is likely to be a young animal and may have shorter horns. The klipspringer found here is the Maasai race, in which the majority of females as well as the males are horned.

lCfY\ I

TSETSE FLIES, which look like large house flies but with wings crossed at the back, may be troublesome in this area, as they can inflict an unpleasant bite. This species does not, however, carry sleeping sickness.

You will now have reached the southern most point of the Park and, as there is no e~it here, you must return north to the gate. You need not cover the same ground as on your outwardtrip~but can take advantage of the numerous loop roads which form a network throughout the Park.

34

PARK MANAGEMENT

The policy of the management of parks in East Africa is to try and preserve natural ecosystems and whenever possible not to irterfere with the. animals and plants within these ecosystems. Park managoment in Manyara is concerned with three main influences of man on wildlife: j~le!wood collection; po,achingand tourism, and conversely with the effects of wildlife activities on communities living close to the Park, such as crop raiding and destruction of livestock by predators. Further management problems arise when animals use traditional migration routes through what is now agricultural land.

fUELWOODCOlLEC110N

Lake Manyara National Park is surrounded by agricultural development and increasing human settlement and much of this area has been cleared of trees. Most rural communities use wood or charcoal to cook with and the demand for fuelwood is high and increasing. Trees within all national parks are protected and Park authorities patrol the boundaries to check for any illegal cutting or encroachment

POACHING

Park authorities also organise anti-poaching patrols. There are two types of poaching activities; poaching for meat, usually antelope, and trophy hunting of elephants and rhinos. As Lake Manyara National Park is surrounded so closely by human settlement the Park authorities have to be vigilant in their efforts to control poaching.

YOU CAN HELP THE PARKS IN THEIR FIGHT AGAINST IVORY POACHERS BY NOT CONTRIBUTING'TO THE TRADE BY BUYING IVORY GOODS

f' C

If you do see poachers in the Park please giv~ any information to the nearest ranger post as soon as possible.

TOURISM

Tourism is an integral part of park management Facilities for tourists, such as roads and accommadatiorP,have to be provided and maintained. Roads are planned to give visitors an opportunity to see as much of the wildlife as possible,. without damaging the fragile vegetation. Campsites are chosen for their scenic locations. Park interpretation programmes have been developed to increase understanding about the local environment

35


TOURIST FACILITIES  ACCESSIBIUTY

GARAGE FACILITIES

There are garage facilities at Manyara Park Headquaters and the, Lake Manyara Hotel. Petrol, when available, can be pUl'chas~ i at the Park entrance and the hotel.

Lake Manyara National Park lies about 120 kms from Arusha Driving from Arusha you take the main Dodoma roafll until Makuyuni then turn right onto an all weather road which leads to Lake Manyara and on to Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti.

,

FEES

MEDICAL FACILITIES

There is a dispensary at the hotel for administering first aid. There is a healiil centre in the village of Mto wa Mbu and a radio at the Park Headquarters, from where the Flying Doctor Service can, be contacted.

Information about the current fees charged for entry to the National Parks can be obtained from tour operators or the National Park Headquarters, p.a. Box 3134, Arusha Prices are subject to change.

PARKINTERPRETATtON

ACCOMMODATION

Guides:

There are guides, who can accompany you 0n your game drive, available at the Park entrance. A small fee is charged for this service.

Hotel:

Lake Manyara Hotel is situated outside the Park on top of the escarpment, with excellent views overlooking the lake. The hotel has 212 rooms and a swimming pool. Bookings can be made through Serengeti Safari Lodges Ltd. p.a. Box 3100, Arusha,

Tel. 3849.

Museum:

There is a museum at tfle Park entrance which contains a number of exhibits of interest to visitors. There is a particularly good collection of mounted birds common in Lake Manyara National Park.

Bandas:

There are ten self-help bandas at Lake Manyara National Park. They are situated before the entrance to the Park, set amongst tall trees. There is a raised sitting platform and a central kitche'n and dining banda. Gas (if available) and firewood are provided. Bookings can be made through the Tanzania National Parks head office, p.a. Box 3134, Arusha or through the Chief Park Warden, Lake Manyara National Park, p.a. Box 12, Mto Wa Mbu.

Numbered trees:

Certain individual trees in the Park have been fitted with numbered tags in order to help visitors in identifying them. (See page 38.) Unfortunately very few of the trees have common names.

Campsites:

There are two campsites in the forest at the entrance to Park. Both have water, toilet and shower facilities. There is a special campsite within the Park at Mahali pa Nyati. Permission to camp there must be obtained from the warden. There arEj! no facilities. Please always be careful with your .campfire and mbbish. Please do not feed. the baboon~ as they can bite.

Hostel:

There is a hostel at the Park Headquarters, which can be used by groups visiting the Park. It sleeps 48 people and has toilet and kitchen facilities. Bookings should be made ~s fQr the bandas.

36

37


1 TffJITIB orientalis 2 CeItis zenkeri

3 TrichiltJs emetica

4 Croton macrostpchys 5 Ce/tis africana

6 Antiaris toxicaria

7 Drypetes natalensis . 8 Bride/ia micrantha

9 Ficus vallis-choudae 10 Rauvolfia caffra

11 Ficus thonningii

12 Chaetacme aristata 13 Ficus sycamorus 14 Kigelia africana

15 Acacia clavigera 16 Cordia gOetzi

17 Zanha golungensis

18 Tabemaemontana usambarensis 19 Chlorophora excelsa

20 Albizia zimmennannii

21 Acacia xanthoph/oea

22 Cordia africana

23 Phoenix rec/inata

24 Sorindeia obtusifo/io/ata 25 Hyphaene ventricosa 26 Ekl!b9fgia buchananii 27 Ficus wakefie/dii

28 Diosypyros abyssinica 29 B1ighia unijugata

30 Ba/anites aegyptiaca 31 Tamarindus indica 32 Acacia torti/is

33 Ziziphus ~Qbescens 34 Acacia a/bids

35 Acacia sieberiana

36 AdBnsonia digitata

37 Sterculia stenocarpa 38 Commiphora ba/uensis

38

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

c -

GU1DES:

A Field Guide to the Birds of East t\frica J.G.-Williams & N. Arlott

A Field Guide to the Larger Mammals of Africa J. Dorst & P. Dandelot

Collins1980

Collins 1970

A Field Guide to the Mammals of Africa including Madagascar 1. Haltenorth & H. Oilier

Collins 1980

GENERAL:

Portraits in the Wild

Ar:ljmal Behaviour in East Africa C. Moss

Univ. Chicago Press 1982

Last Days of Eden

E. Huxley & H. van Lawick

Harvill Press 1984

ABOUT MANYARA:

; ....• '

lake Manyara National' Park Checklist ofBifds

Tan.zania-National Parks

25

Among the Elephants

I. and O. Douglas-Hamilton

Penguin Books Ltd 1978

-~_ .. _-~~~-

39