TANZANIA'S NATIONAL PARKS

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1 Serengeti

2 Lake - Manyara 3 Tarangire

4 Arusha

5 Kilimanjaro 6. Mikumi

7 Ruaha

8 Kitavi

9 Mahale Mountains 10 Gombe

. 11 Rubondo Island

'PARK REGULATIONS

Visitors are reminded by the Park authorities that it is an offence to:

Approach too close and disturb any birds or animals

Cause any noise or create a disturbance likely to offend or annoy other visitors Pick any flowers or cut or destroy any vegetation

Discard any litter, burning cigarette ends or matches

Exceed the speed limit of 30 kph

Bring a pet into the Park

Bring a firearm into the Park

© TANAPA/AWF FEBRUARY 1987

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Lying between the peaks of Kilimanjaro and Meru, Arusha National Park is an outstandingly beautiful area. The Park has a wide range of habItats, from the string of crater lakes where many water birds can be watched, through the highland montane forest and on up to the imposing summit of Mt Meru .

The forests contain a wealth of birds and other animals, like the beautIful bushbuck easily glimpsed in the glades between the ancient cedar trees, or the black and white colobus monkeys climbing along their branches. The interesting geology of the area is reflected in the impressive view of the ash cone and cliff face leading to the summit of MtMeru.

Everywhere throughout the Park there are chances to observe the natural world at its own pace, to see different animals in their various habitats and absorb something of the serenity of the surroundings. Those who ascend the summit of the mountain will be rewarded with unparalleled views of the majestic Mt Kilimanjaro and the Riff Valley

Your purchase of this guide book and visit to Arusha National Park will help preserve this area as all proceeds go directly towards the conservation of the Park I hope that your time here is enjoyable and rewarding.

LOTA MELAMARI Director General Tanzania National Parks

Arusha National Park is a relatively small park, covering an area of 137 sq km, and lies near the town of Arusha. The town and the Park derive their name from the Warusha people who traditionally lived in this area. However the Park also overlaps into areas where the Maasai lived and most of the place names in the Park are of Maasai origin.

ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK & SURROUNDING AREAS

1 Arusha National Park

2 Mt Meru Forest Reserve 3 Ngurdoto Forest Reserve 4 Proposed extensions

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Arusha National Park is situated in a densely inhabited part of Tanzania, where demands for land are high, and parts of the Park are already bordered by agricultural settlement. Plans to extend the Park to include surrounding forest reserves have been formulated to ensure the io"ng-term survival of forest habitats and their associated species within the Park.

Three distinct areas are to be found within Arusha National Park: Ngurdoto Crater, the Momela Lakes and the rugged Mt Meru. Altitudes range from 1500 m above sea level at Momela to over 4500 m at the summit of Meru. The vegetation which occurs in the Park is correlated to the altitude and geology of the area. Ngurdoto Crater is surrounded by forest whilst the crater floor is a swampy area. The Momela Lakes, like many in the Rift Valley, are alkaline, and Mt Meru is a mixture of lush forests and b8;re rocks.

Associated with these different vegetation zones and places are different types of animals: migrating water birds settle on the lakes, waterbuck and reedbuck are found near water, while shy bush buck and duikers keep to the forested areas. It is obviously impossible to say exactly where different species will be encountered but it is possible to build up a picture of the most likely species to be found in any area. Within this wide range of habitats almost 400 species of birds have been recorded in the Park. Some of these are migratory and present between October and April, others are. permanently

resident in the forests.

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Arusha National Park is ideal for a day trip, but if you plan to climb Mt Meru you will need longer. If you are visiting the Park for a full day it is recommended that you visit the Ngurdoto Crater in the morning, drive through the Park towards the Momela Lakes, stopping at one ofthe picnic sites before visiting the slopes of Mt Meru iD the afternoon. If you only have half a day for your visit concentrate on Ngurdoto and the lakes, or on Mt Meru. Two of the most attractive features about Arusha National Park are the observation points, or hides, and the numerous picnic sites throughout the Park where you have the opportunity to leave your car.

PICNIC SITES (e) & OBSERVATION POINTS/HIDES (0)

NGURDOTO

e Ngurdoto campsite ~ Leitong

~ The Glades g Buffalo Point g The Rock

o Mountain View ~ Mikindu Point g Rhino Crest

MOMELA LAKES e Lake Kusare

g Small Momela Lake g Kinandia Swamp

Q Kinandia Obs. Point g Big Momela Lake

Q Lake Tulusia

g Lake Lekandiro

g Lake Longil g Soma la Megi

MTMERU

• Campsite No 1 • Campsite No 2 g Campsite No 3

Q Tululusia Obs. Point • Jekukumia

Q Kitoto

Q Njeku Waterfall Q Crater

~ Miriakamba

• Senato Pools
• Lake Jembamba

See map on centre pages

Please always keep a careful lookout for buffalos, elephants and snaKes. Please do not leave any litter at the picnic sites.

Although it is forbidden to go down into Ngurdoto Crater you can take a one hour walk through the forest from Kitoto to Meru Crater. You must however be accompanied by an armed Park guide, whether walking or climbing Mt Meru, because of the danger of buffalos, This can be arranged through the Warden at the Park Headquarters at Momela Gate. Further mountaineering details are to be found on page 45.

Most of the roads in the Park are suitable for saloon cars, although some of the tracks get slippery in the wet season. (The short rains occur in October and November and the long rains from March to May.) A few tracks are for 4 wheel drive vehicles only and these are indicated on the map on the centre pages.

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GEO'lOGY and HISTORY

Arusha National Park lies on the eastern edge of the Great Rift Valley, which is part of a fault in the earth's crust which stretches 8000 kms from Turkey to the mouth of the Zambezi River in Mozambique. The Rift Valley was form,ecl20 million years ago and amidst this terrestial turmoil a small subsidiary vent opened at the eastern foot of the present Mt Meru and Ngurdoto was born.

Molten rock was forced to the earth's surface by superheated steam and ejected, slowly building up a cone around the vent and imprisoning gases from the earth's core. When the pressure ofthese gases built up a vast explosion occurred and a crater was formed. Repeated activity of this kind increased the size of the crater.

Ngurdoto volcano is now extinct but from the pear-shape of the present day crater it seems that towards the end of its activity there were in fact two cones lying very close together. When the molten rock below the cones withdrew to deeper levels the cones were left without support and then collapsed forming the present crater, or as it should more correctly be called, caldera.

Mt Meru on the other hand is a dormant volcano. The crater wall was ruptured by a series of violent explosions a quarter of a million years ago. These explosions may have been caused by blocking of the vent or water from a crater lake seeping in. This caused the whole eastern wall of the crater to be blown away and a mass of water, mud, rocks and lava cascaded down the eastern side of the mountain. The Momela Lakes were formed by depressions in the drying mud. Since then repeated volcanic activity has built the ash cone into the shape it is today and the sporadic eruptions have streaked the sides of the mountain with lava. The most recent evidence of activity can be seen on the. north western side of the ash cone where a small lava flow occurred just over 100 years ago.

At around this time in 1876, Count Teleki, a Hungarian, was the first European to visitthe Momela area. He commented on the vast number of hippos and rhinos he saw, but the latter are now sadly no longer in the Park. In 1907 the Trappe family moved to Momela to farm, using large areas of the present Park as a cattle ranch. The elder Mrs Trappe, who was the first woman to become a professional hunter in East Africa, voluntarily set aside a large part ofthe Momela estate for a game sanctuary. When the Park was established in 1960 the farm was incorporated into it.

Originally the Park was known as Ngurdoto Crater National Park but in 1967 Mt Meru was include~ and the name changed to Arusha National Park.

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The early mornings and late evenings are usually the best times to observe animals. During the heat of the day much of the wildlife rests under cover or retreats into the deeper parts of the forests. However with careful and patient searching, visitors can see interesting species throughout the day in Arusha National Park.

The forest trees provide habitats for many bird and mammal species .. Stop beside a tree and carefully scan the trunk and branches. Listen for branches cracking as a troop of colobus monkeys travel along the tree tops. Many forest birds have loud calls which penetrate through the leafy canopy and reveal their whereabouts. Please always remember to approach the animals slowly and quietly so as not to scare them.

The waterbirds around the lakes are particularly abundant between October and April because of the presence of many migrants from the northern hemisphere. Look carefu lIy at the shape of thei r beaks to see how these are adapted for the food they eat.

When you first see members of a group of animals, like a herd of giraffe, a troop of baboons or pair of Egyptian geese, they all look much the same. If you spend a few moments watching you will begin to see individual differences. No two Egyptian geese have exactly the same colouration and plumage patterns, baboons have tails of various shapes and lengths. Giraffes have individually distinct patterns the neck is a good place to look at the markings and

recognise individuals. Look to see the composition of the group: is there one male with several females, or all males or a mixture? As you watch carefully you may begin to notice the way animals interact with each other; how the young play together, how closely they feed together, whether some animals seem dominant to others and what a courtship display looks like.

There is a large variety of tree species in Arusha National Park. As you drive through the Park Y0t1 can see which speciep are prevalent in the different habitats. In order to help with identification, numbered labels have been attached to certain individual trees . There is a full numbered list of these trees on page 46, and where trees are mentioned in the text or illustrated in the guide book, these corresponding numbers are given.

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NGURDOTO_

The area at the fork of the roads leading to Ngurdoto Gate or Momela Gate is called 'Serengeti Ndogo'. The name, which means 'little Serengeti', describes the open grassland and is the only place in the Park where BURCHELL'S ZEBRA will be seen. Zebras are usually associated with open plains country and the small population

which occurs here has been confined to\\~;~v

Park increases. Zebras live either in family

units of up to a dozen females and young, or in bachelor herds of mainly immature males. Each family unit is controlled by a stallion, which defends it both against potential rivals and against predators. Foals are born in all months except the dry season.

If you take the road to the right you will arrive at Ngurdoto Gate. There is a small museum here with a good collection of mounted birds common to Arusha National Park. Two roads lead into the Park, the left hand one leads towards Momela and the other to the Ngurdoto Crater.

Ngurdoto Gate is situated on the edge of Ngurdoto Forest and is a good place to stop and take a first view of the forest. As you begin to look around you will notice that there are different types of vegetation growing at three separate levels. These are the tall trees, the intermediate shrubs and the grasses and flowering plants at the lower level.

Five common trees are illustrated on the previous page. As you drive through the forest look at the trees' shapes, leaves and bark colours to help tell them apart. Unfortunately very few of the trees have common names but these are used in the guide book wherever possible. The WILD MANGO (12) has long lush green leaves which are clustered and the fruits can usually be seen growing. The distinctive bark of Bersama abyssinnica (9) makes it easy to identify. This tree has brown and white reticulated streaks on pale brown bark. Rauvolfia cattra (11) has smooth grey bark, with some pale patterning and very distinctive leaves. These trees can grow to 25 m in wet forests. The AFRICAN OLIVE (10) has a fairly straight trunk, steeply ascending branches up to a dense crown. The bark is grey-white and smooth in contrast to Diospyros abyssinica (5) which is also a straight slender tree but with a very dark bark. An easy tree to recognise is Ficus thonningi (13), a wild fig, with its curious aerial roots and smooth grey bark (see illustrations on pages 35 and 44).

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9 Bersarna abyssinica 10 Olea hochstetteri

11 Rauvo!fia caffra

'IL12 Tabernaemontana usambarensis 13 Ficus thonningii

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DETAil OF FRUITS I

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One of the most common animals of the forest is the OLIVE BABOON. A baboon troop consists of between 30 and 100 individuals, and is made up of females and their young, adolescent animals of both sexes and a number of adult males. At adolescence, males leave the troop into which they wer~born and 'transfer' intcranother troop.

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Males can be distinguished from females by their larger size, mane and canines. At first, females carry their young on their stomachs, but after about a month the young infant

. rides jockey style on the mother's back near the tail. Female baboons form dominance hierarchies and high ranking females have greater access to food. The hierarchies of the males are not so clear cut and depend on factors such as fighting ability and age. When in oestrus females develop a large pink swelling on their rears, which signals to the males their receptivity.

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PLEASE DO NOT FEED THE BABOONS THEY CAN BITE AND INFLICT VERY SERIOUS WOUNDS.

Much of their diet consists of grass, roots, fruit and insects but they can, and do, hunt and kill small antelopes. A single baboon troop can range in an area as large as 10 sq km, but the ranges in Arusha are likely ta be much smaller.

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Anather primate which can frequently be heard 'Or seen in the high forest canopy is the BLACK AND WHITE, COLOBUS MONKEY. These handsome monkeys are easily recognised by their long flowing hair which forms a white mantle aroundt~e body and by their bushy white tails. Their calls are a guttural roar which is repeate'd rapidly in chorus. Black and white calobus are the mast arboreal of all African monkeys and rarely descend from the trees to the ground. They live within a well defined home range within the forest. Colobus monkeys feed on the leaves and travel through the canopy by jumping from tree to tree and sometimes swinging by their arms, It is a fantastic sight to watch the aerobatics of a troop as they move.

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Black and white colobus live in family traops with an adult male and severar'females. Young males leave and either form new troaps or are solitary. When born the young are white but change ta adult colouration during their first three months.

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In the past the Chagga people of Kilimanjaro used colobus fur to make traditional tribal headdresses and in some areas colobus numbers were greatly reduced. Today colobus living outside the Park are much threatened by destruction of their forest habitat.

They are primarily browsers, feeding on leaves, young shoots, bark and seeds and may even eat the fruits of trees. 'Although usually solitary or in pairs, red duikers may occasionally gather in groups in woodland clearings when attracted there by food. Although mostly nocturnal red duikers are sometimes seen in the day. However the blue and bush duikers also found in the Park are rarely seen.

Another conspicuous forest species is the SILVERY -CHEEKED HORNBILL. This large bird with its casqued bill, flies with creaking wing beats and often sits at the top of trees making a raucous noise. It is not known what purpose the casque serves but it probably helps to amplify the sound of the bird's cries. Like most species of hornbill, the female is walled into her nest while she incubates the eggs. The nest entrance is sealed with mud and the male feeds the female through a small hole. Hornbills eat fruit and their serrated upper mandible helps them to forage efficiently.

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In contrast to the noisy hornbill the RED D!LlIKER is a shy, quiet, inconspicuous animal which you may be lucky enough to see. Duikers are small antelopes that move easily through dense vegetation, carrying their head low, along regular runs. When disturbed they plunge into thick cover. This latter action gives the animal its name duiker comes from the Dutch 'diver'. Red duikers are rufous-chestnut in colour, with somewhat pale underparts and both sexes have horns.

The road from Ngurdoto Gate to the crater divides and leads to the northern and southern edges. The left hand road is the steeper and takes you to Leitong, the highest point of the crater rim. The right hand road also leads to observation points and picnic sites. Both roads can be slippery in the wet season when 4-wheel drive is often needed. Black rough-wing swallows and CINNAMON-CHESTED BEE-EATERS nest in holes in the roadside banks, and may often be seen coming and going.

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From any ofthe observation points, such as Mikindu Point, the view of the crater, stretch­ ing 3 kms from rim to rim, is spectacular. The bottom of the crater is at an altitude of 1474 m and is an ideal place for buffalos

with good grazing, permanent water and convenient mud wallows. The crater is in effect a reserve within a reserve as no one is allowed to go down into it but you may notice well marked trails which are used by the animals to ascend and descend.

Mikindu Point is named after the WILD DATE PALMS which grow precariously on the ",oc;rater wall. The ones grQwing here are now elegant palms, but it took some years for them to develop from a trunkless cl.mp offronds.lnterestingly palms, unlike trees, have only one growing point, which means that the palm will die if this point is damaged.

The snowy peak of Mt Kilimanjaro, at 5895 m Africa's highest mountain, can often be observed from here. The higher rounded peak is that of Kibo, while the smaller jagged peak of Mawenzi is separated from the main massif by a saddle. Like many of the mountains in this region, Kilimanjaro is an extinct volcano.

NGURDOTO CRATER RIM

5 Mountain View 0

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Because of the damp misty atmosphere here, mosses, ferns, orchids and lichens flourish. Mosses and ferns have no flowers but are propagated by spores. The beard­ like lichens which hang from the trees are a strange combination offungus and algae in such intimate association that the combination is classified as a distinct species. They are not parasitic but merely perch on their hosts.

The commonly seen pink-flowered ground plant is balsam, Impatiens papilionacea, sometimes called 'touch-me-not' because the ripe seed-pods explode when touched. During the dry season, from June to November, sheets of yellow stonecrop (Crassulaceae sp.) cover the trunks of the larger trees, while scarlet globular fire-ball lilies flower in shady damp places during the period December to February.

Leitong at 1853 m is the highest point on the rim of the crater, with fine views of the surrounding countryside and the Momela Lakes in the distance. The agricultural settlement which can be seen bordering the Park is a reminder of how vulnerable protected areas in Africa are to increasing human numbers and demand for land.

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Several birds soar high on updraughts of warm air around the crater rim. The

VERREAUX'S EAGLE is a large black eagle with the centre of the back and rump white. These magnificent raptors nest in large nests on cliff edges at the beginning of the rainy season. A smaller bird is the WHITE-NECKED RAVEN which is entirely black exceptfor a crescent-shaped white patch on the back of its neck. The PEREGRINE FALCON is a bird of prey recognised by its streamlined build and pointed wings, as well as its dark broWfl crown and black AlIoustache patches.

As the two tracks around the crater do not join up, it is necessary to retrace your route back to Ngurdoto Gate before ~xploring more of the Park.

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SENATO POOLS, LAKE JEMBAMBA and LAKE LONGIL

As you travel from Ngurdoto Gate towards Momela you pass Ngongongare Spring and then reach Lokie Swamp on the left and Senato Pools and Lakes Jembamba and Longi I on the right. These pools frequently dry out, but when full of water host a variety of waterfowl and are used as drinking places by all kinds of wildlife.

From the observation hides you can often watch a small group of BOHOR REED BUCK as they graze on the green pasture which is always available. The Bohor reed buck can be identified by its uniform tawny colour and very bushy tail with a white 'flag'. The males have short forward curving horns. Reedbuck are difficult to see when they are lying down in tall reeds, but if alarmed they will give a shrill whistle and run off with a typical 'rocking horse' gait.

Another antelope usually found near water, as its name suggests, is the COMMON WATERBUCK. This thick-set antelope has a brownish-grey coat and distinctive white ring around the rump. Only the males are horned. They are territorial, but waterbuck are unusual in that several adult, subadult and juvenile males may be found mixed with herds of females and young. The territorial bull will tolerate younger males as long as they behave submissively, approaching him with head and tail extended while licking the air. Females perform the same submissive display.

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Watch out for safari ants asyou walk to the hides. Safari ants are reddish coloured and move in long columns. They will nip with their sharp pincers if disturbed so it is always best to step over a line of ants. Snakes may be present but are rarely seen.

The grassy glades around Lake Longil remain green throughout the year and provide permanent grazing for many animals. This is a good spot to observe animals emerging from the forest in the early morning and in the late afternoon before they retreat. The grasses are star grass ( Cynodon dactylon) and Pennisetum clandestinum valuable pasture for domestic stock throughol,Jt East Africa. Butterflies are frequently seen fluttering in patches of sunlight or along the road.

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MACE-REED

PAPYRUS

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Lake Longil is a beautiful spot. If you choose to stop here for a picnic please keep a careful lookout in ca'se there are any buffalos in the vicinity. The lake is full of Tilapia fish, a main source of food for fish eagles. The brown and white FISH EAGLE is easily recognised. Its lonely cry, which will often be heard echoing across the water, is one of the most characteristic and evocative sounds of the African wilds. The bird throws its' head backwards when calling, even in flight.

On the lake floating islands of PAPYRUS and MACE-REED change direction with the wind. These islands of vegetation are similar to the 'sudd' in the River Nile and the Euphrates delta.

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As you approach Kambi ya Fisi the forest is now much thinner and two trees become more common, Croton mega/ocarpus (3) is a tall tree with rough grey bark, The leaves are broad with pale silvery undersides, A smaller tree of the same family is Croton macrostachyus (4), it has a grey bark and sweet scented yellow-white flowers and large heart-shaped leaves,

Kambi ya Fisi means Hyena's Camp and there is a den nearby the road, SPOTTED HYENAS have a bear-like appearance with a very sloping back, short broad muzzle and round ears. They live in clans varying in size from 10 to 100 animals, and occupy 8 recognised territory The sexes are difficult to tell apart but the females can be distinguished by their larger size and the presence of nipples, Hyenas have the reputation of being scavengers but they frequently hunt and kill their own food. In Arusha National Park the other main predator is the leopard, which stores its kills in trees, so the hyenas in the Park must be very dependent on their own hunting for food. Hyenas are not often seen during the day but their whooping cry can be heard at night.

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Many visitors wonder atthe absence of lions in the Park. Lions tend to prefer more open . habitats, where there are more prey species.

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As you continue on the-route to Momela there are fine"views of Mt Meru with the ash cone and Little Meru clearly visible. The vegetation now becomes more open and elephants can sometimes be spotted feeding in small groups.

The AFRICAN ELEPHANT is larger than its Asian relative and has a sloping, as opposed to a straight back, and much larger ears. If you see a herd of elephants it is most likely to be a family unit, although all male groups occur too. Like baboons the social system of the elephant is based on close family kin. Daughters remain in the same hei"d as their mothers and grandr;nothers, whilst males leave once they reach adolescence. The young males then live in bachelor groups which are not permanent and often change composition.

If you watch a herd of females and young you may be able to spot the matriarch. This is usually the oldest and largest animal who acts as the leader, particularly during defence when she will govern the course of action. Elephants can live for about 60 years and a female may give birth by the time she is 12 years old, after a gestation of 22 months. When a baby elephant is born it is only 80 cms high and the whole herd is attentive to it and will be very protective. Observe how elephants use their trunks for many different purposes including feeding, drinking and greeting others.

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The track to Boma la Megi is lined with Psiadia arabica, a bushy shrub with yellow flowers, which often grows on cleared land. En route a large FLAT TOPPED ACACIA, Acacia abyssinica (15), can be seen. This tree has fissured brown bark and a spreading crown and is commonly found at the edges of highland forests ..

GIRAFFES are common here and in the Momela area ofthe Park. In other parts of East Africa they traditionally feed on acacia trees but in Arusha National Park giraffes have adapted their diet and eat a wide variety of leaves. The species of giraffe occurring in Arusha is the Maasai giraffe which has irregular star shaped markings which cover almost the entire body. The sight of several long necks emerging out of the bushes is very typical of this Park.

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BOMA LA MEGI

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For all its great length the giraffe's neck has only seven vertebrae, the same as man. A male giraffe weighs about 500­ 800 kgs and stands about five metres tall: the female is about one metre shorter and correspondingly lighter. Males can be distinguished from females by their sturdier horns, which are not true horns but' thickened bone. In the f~male the horns are more slender and often topped with a tuft of hair.

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If you watch giraffes walk you will notice that they have a characteristic gait which brings both limbs on the same side forward together. Amongst the males there is a strong dominance hierarchy and it is fairly easy to observe the displacement of one male by another .. Males frequently spar in a particular manner known as 'necking'. They stand shoulder to shoulder and swing their heads at each other in such a way that their necks sometimes entwine. The impact is often loud enough to be heard.

The name Boma la Megi is of Maasai origin and means the land belonging to Megi. After a short climb from the track, as you survey the wonderful view from this point, it is easy to see why the site was chosen. Mt Kilimanjaro is visible if it is clear, the pattern of the Momela Lakes stands out against the surrounding area and the Sanya Plains can be seen in the far distance.

After you return to the road the drive towards the Momela Lakes takes you through a small area. of forest composed mostly of brown olive trees (6), a spreading tree with many branches and Diospyros abyssinica (5). Blue monkeys, bluish-black in colour can sometimes be seen here and because of the sparse undergrowth it is one of the best places to get good views of duikers.

The road continues past Lake El Kekhotoito, which means 'dead wood' in the Maasai language, and Lake Kusare. These are fresh water lakes, and provide drinking water for many animals. The route leads on through gentle rolling hills of red-oat grassland, Themeda triandra, down tq the Momela Lakes.

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Momela  LAKES

The Momela Lakes are largely fed from under-ground streams and are not very deep. They are alkaline which means they are very salty and animals do not use them for drinking. The lakes contain very few fish but many micro-organisms can grow in the highly alkaline water. Because of their different mineral contents each lake supports a different type of algal growth and this gives each a different colour. No doubt for this reason, bird life also varies from one stretch of water to another, even where the lakes are only separated by a strip of land a few yards wide.

PLEASE DRIVE ANTI-CLOCKWISE AROUND THE LAKES.

EN ROUTE THERE ARE SEVERAL HIDES AND OBSERVATION POINTS.

Bird life on the lakes also varies enormously according to the time of year. From October to April the lakes are alive with waterfowl which have migrated down from the northern hemisphere. For the remainder ofthe year the resident birds have the lakes to themselves. The commonest water bird on the lakes is the little grebe, a small greyish brown bird with a chestnut-red face and throat, with a high pitched trilling call. Also present but in fewer numbers are great crested grebes, recognised by their chestnut and black head-frills and black crown-tufts. Another common bird is the Southern pochard. The male is a very dark brown with a dark chestnut head and slate-blue bill. The female is paler, with a white mark on the side of the head.

E.asily distinguished birds are the flamingos. Lesser flamingos are smaller than the greater flamingo, and their plumage is much pinker. The bill is dark red in the lesser and pink with a black tip in the greater flamingo. Lesser flamingos feed on algae whilst the greater flamingos eat tiny crustaceans which they filter through their bills. These different diets enable the two species to coexist in the same habitat

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One ofthe most easily recognisable birds is the EGYPTIAN GOOSE. It has a brown plumage with contrasting white shoulders. There is a chestnut patch on the centre of the belly and one around the eye. Geese are grazers and will often fly long distances every day from their roost sites to good grasslands. In the agricultural settlements around Arusha National Park, Egyptian geese.often cause damage to neyvly planted crops like maize.

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BIRDS AT THE MOMELA LAKES

1 Great crested grebe 2 Uttle grebe

3 Long-tailed cormorant 4 Greater cormorant

5 White pelican

6 Pink-backed pelican 7 Grey heron

8 Black-headed heron 9 Great white egret

10 Yellow.:'billed egret 11 Hamerkop

12 Saddle-bill stork 13 Sacred ibis

14 Hadada ibis

15 African spoonbill 16 Greater flamingo 17 Lesser flamingo 18 Maccoa duck

19 Southern pochard 20 White-backed duck 21 Shoveler

22 Yellow-billed duck 23 Garganey

24 Cape wigeon 25 Hottentot teal 26 Red-billed teal 27 Pintail

28 White-faced whistling duck

29 Fulvous whistling duck 30 Knob-billed goose

31 Egyptian goose

32 Spur-winged goose 33 Fish eagle

34 Crowned crane

35 Red-knobbed coot 36 Crowned plover

37 Black-winged plover 38 Blacksmith plover 39 Avocet

40 Black-winged stilt 41 Little stint

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To Ngare Nanyuki

ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK

Little Meru 3820 m

Kinandia Swamp

Meru Summit 4566 m

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o Park entrance

o Observation Post/Hide

~ Main park track

- • - • - 4-wheel drive only

-- • - -. 4-wheel drive if wet

- - - - Park vehicles only

1-1-1- Footpath

---- Rivers

Kilometres

To Arusha

To Moshi

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MOMELA LAKES

A Lake El Kekhotoito B Lake Kusare

C Small Momela Lake D Lake Rishateni

E Big Momela Lake Flake Tulusia

G Lake Lekandiro

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NGURDOTO CRATER RIM 1 Leitong

2 The Glades 3 Rhino Crest

4 Mikindu Point 5 Mountain View 6 The Rock

7 Buffalo Point

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MOMELAGATE

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The vegetation which lines the road towards the Momela Gate is' primarily Dodonaea viscosa (1). This small tree or shrub is very hardy and is not eaten by any of the animals. It has thin leaves and yellow-green flowers. The shrub has great powers to withstand fire and is often characteristic of secondary growth which occurs in areas that have been denuded of original forest or cleared by fire.

A small mammal often seen here is the BANDED MONGOOSE, a stocky little animal with a wiry coat marked by dark transverse bands. They live in groups of up to 30 individuals and can be seen following one another very closely as they move like a huge snake winding through the bush. Mongooses sometimes follow the trails of elephants and buffalos and eat the dung beetles and millipedes which they find in the

The pack can roam a large area looking for food and while foraging keep in contact with each other by continual twittering. Within a pack's territory there are usually several dens among which they wander. Young are kept in the den until they are old enough to

forage and it is believed that they may be suckled by different females.

HIPPOPOTAMUSES are often seen near the island in Small Momela Lake: Hippos are large animals on average 2-3000 kgs.lt is not known exactly why hippos spend most of the day submerged, but they have a very porous skin, and the behaviour is thought to prevent dehydration. They swim very well and dive for periods of about three minutes before coming up to breathe noisily.

Every night and occasionally on wet overcast days hippos leave the water to graze, sometimes roaming a considerable distance from their pool. They can eat up to 60 kgs in a night and feed only on grasses andsedges. Females give birth to a single calf either

As you watch hippos you will most likely hear them grunting and might see them spreading their dung with vigorous wagging movements of their short strong tails. It is safe to watch hippos from the bank as they bask in water, but they should be avoided if found on land. Hippos are usually placid creatures but can become very aggressive if an intruder gets between them and their pool.

Other anima~ which you might see on your circuit of the lakes are bush buck, buffalo, waterbuck, Bohor reedbuck and occasionally elephants, as they emerge from cover in early morning and late evening at Kinandia Swamp, or in the cleared pastures at the northern end of Small Momela Lake.

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Buffalo dung is put to good use by DUNG BEETLES which act as scavengers. There are many species of dung beetles, specialising in different types of dung, and they play a very important role in the breakdown of organic materials. Some beetles are active by day, some by night. The most common types belong to the genera Scarabeus and Khepher. These busy beetles roll the dung into balls which are buried underground. This activity occurs particularly in the wet season. For most of the year the adults feed on these dung balls, but at certain times of the year the female lays an egg inside one of the balls which provides food for the larva when it emerges.

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BUFFALOS are often seen in this area in mixed breeding herds or as male animals living alone or in bachelor herds. The males weigh up to 775 kgs, measure about one and a half metres at the shoulder and carry massive, heavily bossed horns. Buffalos are primarily grazers and spend more time feeding at night than during the day. This may be because they have a poor ability to regulate their body temperature and must therefore avoid too much activity during the heat of the day. As they need to drink regularly and are especially fond of wallowing, buffalos tend to stay close to water.

FIELD ESTIMATION OF AGING (after Grimsdell)

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A small dainty antelope which will be seen either singly or in pairs is KIRK'S DIKDIK. They weigh about 4 kgs and the female is slightly bigger than the male. In colour they are drab grey and they have very large eyes and proboscis-like noses. Only the male is horned. Dikdiks pair for life and live in a territory which they know well. This helps them in foraging and when fleeing from predators. They have a habit of depositing their droppings in a selected spot where large quantities will accumulate. These dung piles serve as territorial markers.

You should be able to distinguish between the sexes and ages on the basis of horn shape and size and might see evidence of the dominance hierarchies found in buffalos, by watching to see if certain animals displace others when feeding.

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A common monkey here is the VERVET MONKEY, a small monkey with a black face, white cheek-tufts and grey fur. Male vervets are easily identified by their azure blue scrotum. Vervets feed on insects, fruit, leaves and seeds and may also eat young birds and eggs. Their social structure is similar to baboons although vervets are territorial and defend their ranges against nearby groups. Leopards are their main enemies.

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'NU:RU ·MOUNTAIN

The Mt Meru section of the Park, which lies west of the Ngare Nanyuki road, is entered through a gate opposite the main Momela Gate. The Ngare Nanyuki River, fed by rain from the mountain, runs through a boulder-bed area and crosses the,road soon after the gate. If you plan to walk anywhere on the mountain you must be accompanied by an armed Park ranger.

UNDER TULULUSIA HILL

Tululusia Hill, with its gentle curved shape forms an interesting backdrop to the scenery. Tululusia means 'sentinel' in the local language. Tall yellow barked fever trees can be seen here in the swamp. These acacia trees always grow in damp places and were thought by early explorers to cause malaria. On the grasses below herds of buffalos congregate, warthogs kneel to graze and tawny eagles perch in the branches.

TAWNY EAGLES are a uniform brown with a relatively short rounded tail. The plumage can vary from dark to pale brown, but the latter is not seen in Arusha. Tawny eagles are abundant in East Africa and they feed on small mammals and gamebirds, such as francolins and guineafowl.

WARTHOGS are usually found in family groups of females and their young but sometimes the'previous year's young stay in the family. Males, easily identified by their impressively curved tusks, normally live by themselves, only joining the groups for

mating. A typical sight is to see warthogs running away with their tails in the air. Warthogs live in burrows, taken over from other animals.

Tululusia River drops over a waterfall as it flows towards the swamp. There is a road to the waterfall which passes several dead Bride/ia micrantha trees but it is sometimes washed away by the river. The best cue to use to locate the fall is a large fig tree which is growing to the left of the waterfall. The main road now leads towards Tululusia Hill and the campsites, and the ground soon begins to rise more steeply and alter its character. The Tululusia Observation Point gives a good view of the mountain and across to the other half of the Park.

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Here at an elevation of about 2000 m you have entered the lower montane forest. The taller trees mainly consist of AFRICAN OLIVE (10) and the white flowered Nuxia cr;mgesta (17). Along the roadside and in clearings where there is less competition, many shrubs and flowering plants grow. Very obvious is Cassia didymobotrya with its black tipped orange-yellow flowers. This semi-woody shrub can grow up to six metres in heignt but is mostly seen at half this size or less.

Other very common ,shrubs are Vernonia subu/igera with its pithy stems, broad'leaves and mauve flowers and, superficially rather similar, Crassocepha/um manniiwhich has narrower leaves and yellowish flowers. At ground level the rich orange flowers with dark centres are 'Slack-eyed Susan', Thunbergia a/ata.

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Vernonia'

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FIG TREE ARCH

This unusual tree formation has been caused by the strangling habits ofthe wild figFicus thonningii (13). Seeds of the fig are dropped in the fork of a host tree by feeding birds. The seeds then germinate and put out aerial roots. These roots everttuatly reach the ground, slowly strangling the host tree which dies, leaving the fig replacing it. Two host trees must once have stood on eit~r side of the road before being smothered by the fig tree now growing. The aerial roots in the

I centre of the archway are prevented from filling in the opening by elephants ~Ch browse~em off as they grow.

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Bushbuck are found in this part of the forest. Bushbuck are medium-sized antelopes usually with rufous-brown coats and light spots on the haunches although in Arusha Park some very dark coloured bushbuck are found. They have vertical stripes on the body and white half-collars around the base of their necks. Short, single-spiral horns are present only in the males, but both sexes have white, rather bushy tails, which are ,~ raised as a 'flag' as they bound for cover.

The road continues steeply up, passing through the open area of Itikoni with a chance to see the mountain before reentering the forest. Scaly francolins dart away from the road verge as you pass.

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HIGHER MONTANE FOREST

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Now at an elevation of about 2300 m the higher montane forest begins. This forest is composed mainly of JUNIPER (2) (sometimes called African Pencil Cedar) and East African YellowWood (18) or 'Podo', as well as a member of the holly family,'//ex mitis. In order to distinguish between podo and juniper you should look at the bark. In podo the bark is pale grey and horizontally and vertically fissured which gives a ragged scaly look, whereas in juniper it is fissured vertically, often peeling in long narrow strips and is pale brown in colour. This is the largest type of juniper in the world and, like podo, is valuable as timber.

Olive pigeons, which feed on the juniper berries and wild olives, may be recognised by their dark colouring and the noisy wing-flapping which is so characteristic of their flight when taking off from a tree. They are present in both the lower and higher forest. Even though flocks of noisy red-fronted parrots are also common in the juniper forest, these birds feed mainly on Podocarpus fruit.

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Other birds likely to be found here include HARTLAUB'S TURACO, which is brightly coloured green and purplish­ black with crimson wings and notable for its raucous call similar to that of a colobus monkey.

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Also present are the two beautiful species of trogons Narina's and the bar-tailed. Trogons are medium sized forest birds with long broad tails, brilliantly green soft plumage above with vivid red on the belly. Although brightly coloured they are often overlooked and are best located by their calls. In Narina's trogon it is a series of soft coos all on one note, whereas the bar­ tailed emits a series of clear double whistles. The BAR-TAILED is smaller and darker, with tail feathers barred black and white and is less common.

KITOTO

Kitoto is an open space with superb views across the Park and up to the mountain. The two most obvious plants are Erica arborea and Stoebe ki/imandscharica. Both are typical heath bushes, with the former being green and the latter grey.

From Kitoto you can drive to Miriakamba and the Meru Crater, but the road is very steep and 4-wheel drive is essential. Much more enjoyable is to walk to Jekukumia River and up to the crater. The walk includes some steep gradients and takes about an hour.

There are many glades in the forest where buffalos graze the succulent grasses. These openings in the forest may originally be caused by elephants or tree falls. Once the area is opened up, the buffalos, by constant grazing, ensure that no trees re-establish themselves. Beneath the forest canopy and also in the glades grows a profusion of wild flowers including a little blue vetch-like plant, Parochetus communis, and the serrated­ leaf A/chemi//a vo/kensii, known as Lady's Mantle.

Four types of epiphytes, or perching plants, are to be seen in the branches of the trees; orchids, mosses, lichens and ferns. None of these plants nourishes itself at the expense of the host tree so is not classified as parasitic.

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At Jekukumia it is possible to walk down to where the Jekukumia and Ngare Nanyuki rivers join. Above this pointthe Ngare Nanyuki contains sweet water, butthe Jekukumia is salty and unfit for drinking. In the local language, Kimeru, the word Jekukumia means 'sometimes hot, sometimes cold' and refers to this unusual trait of the river which is probably caused by the fact that it rises in a volcanic region.

~ware of elephants and buffalos as you descend to the river and also look out for the stinging nettles, Urtica masaicus, which can sting even through light cotton clothing. Colobus monkeys should be visible in this area.

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Erica

As you walk through the forest, after the long rains, you will see 'RED HOT POKERS', Kniphofia thomsoni, in the clearings, and the pink flowered balsam, /mpatiens papi/ionacea. For several months after the short rains in November, the beautiful red flowers of the fire-ball lily, Scadoxus mu/tinorus, can be seen. They are related to the common onion and grow in much the same way. ,

The track di~des and the left path leads to Njeku whilst the other leads to Meru Crater. Njeku means an old woman who has the power ofrain making, and a nearby sacred juniper tree was the site of sacrificial ceremonies by the Meru people in times of drought. From Njeku a short walk takes you to an observation point overlooking the magnificent waterfall in the gorge of the Ngare River.

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MERU CRATER

The walk through the forest ends abruptly as you step out onto the open floor of the Meru Crater. The view of the ash cone and sheer cliff face rising to the summit is breathtaking. The cliff rises over 1500 m and is one of the tallest cliff faces in the world. The old ashflows cascade down towards the crater floor.

If you scan the cliff face you may catch sight of a pair of KLlPSPRINGERS. These thick­ set, rough-coated antelopes are about the size of goats and are adapted for leaping from rock to rock. They stand on the very tip of their narrow, almost cylindrical hooves.

Hypericum

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A shrubby St John's Wort, Hypericum lanceolatum, with its big bright yellow flowers, grows on the old lava flows. On the crater floor Agauria salicifolia (20), a tree with gnarled trunk and greenish-white flowers is found as well as a juniper forest with some regenerating trees. The white flowers of the plant Hebenstretia dentata are odourless

ti Although never common anywhere a lammergeyer may sometimes be seen sbar;j,ng effortlessly over the crater. This bird of prey is well known for its habit of dropping bones from a great height onto rocks in order to break them open. Because it is rare and lives far from human habitation, this bird seems to epitomise the wild, haunting beauty of the upper slopes of Meru Mountain.

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PARK MANAGEMENT

The policy of the management of parks in Tanzania is to try and preserve natural ecosystems and, wherever possible, not to interfere with the animals and plants within these ecosystems. Park management in Arusha is concerned with four main influences of man on wildlife: fuelwood collection, grazing by domestic livestock, poaching and tourism. Conversely it is also concerned with the effects of wildlife activities on communities living close to the Park, such as crop raiding.

FUELWOOD COLLECTION

Arusha National Park is surrounded by increasing human settlement and agricultural development. Most rural communities use wood or charcoal to cook with and demand for fuelwood is high and increasing. Similarly there is a constant demand for building poles. Trees within all national parks are protected and Park authorities patrol the boundaries to check for any illegal cutting or encroachment.

GRAZING BY DOMESTIC LIVESTOCK

Many ofthe rural communities surrounding the Park illegally use areas within the Park to graze their cattle, sheep and goats. Besides reducing the amount of grazing available, the presence of people, particularly when accompanied by dogs, disturbs the wildlife. Again, Park personnel patrol to check for incursions.

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P()A'CHING

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park authorities organise anti-poaching patrols. There are two types of poaching activities, poaching for meat usually buffalo and giraffe, and trophy hunting of elephants. Many rhinos used to occur in Arusha but most, if not all, have been killed. Unfortunately trophy hunting for ivory has greatly increased as world markets continue to demand these item but now that ivory sales are banned in Tanzania poaching may decrease.

ACCESSIBILITY

Arusha National Park is reached from Arusha along the Moshi road and lies 21 kms from Arusha and ~ kms from Moshi. An all weather road leads from the main road to

FEES

YOU CAN HELP THE PARKS IN THEIR FIGHT AGAINST IVORY POACHERS BY NOT CONTRIBUTiNG TO THE IllEGAL TRADE BY BUYING IVORY GOODS

Information on the current fees for entry to the National Parks can be obtained from tour operators or the National Park Headquarters, p.a. Box 3134, Arusha. Prices are subject to change.

If you see any poachers in the Park please give any information to the Warden at the Park Headquarters at Momela.

ACCOMMODATION

Lodge:

Momela Game Lodge is situated outside the Park near Momela Gate, with views overlooking Mt Meru and Mt Kilimanjaro. The lodge can accommodate 40 people.

Rest House:

There is a spacious self-help rest house in the Park which can accommodate up to five people. It is situated near the Momela Gate and overlooks the Park. Booking is recommended and can be made through the Warden, Arusha National Park, p.a. Box 3134, Arusha.

Campsites:

There are four campsites in the Park and one is proposed at Lake Kusare. All campsites have water and toiletfacilities and fuelwood is provided. One campsite is situated in the forest near Ngurdoto Gate and the others at the foot of Tululusia Hill. Please always be careful with your campfire and litter.

Tourism is an integral part of park management. Facilities for tourists such as roads, mountain paths and accommodation, have to be provided and maintained. Roadsare planned to give visitors an opportunity to see as much of the wildlife as possible without damaging the fragile vegetation. Campsites are chosen for their scenic location and equipped with facilities. A net-Nark of support services has also been established. Park interpretation programmes have been developed to increase understanding about the local environment

Hostel:

There is a hostel at Kusare for use by visiting groups which, when equipped, will accommodate 78 people. It has toilet and kitchen facilities. Bookings should be made as for the rest house.

TOURISM

Mountain Huts:

There are two huts in the Park for use by mountain climbers. Miriakamba (1 st) Hut can accommodate 48 people and Saddle (2nd) Hut can accommodate 24 people. Fuelwood is provided.

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GARAGE FACILITIES

There are garage facilities at the ParI< Headquarters. No petrol· is sold in the Park.

MEDICAL FACILITIES

There is a hospital in Arusha town.

PARK INTERPRETATION

Guides:

There are guides, whQ can accompany you on your game drive, available at the Park Headquarters. If you are planning to walk in the Park or climb Mt Meru you must be accompanied by a ranger. A small fee is charged for these services.

Museum:

There is a museum at the Ngurdoto Gate which contains a number of exhibits of interest to visitors. There is a good collection of mounted birds common to Arusha National Park.

Numbered trees:

Certain individual trees in the Park have been fitted with numbered tags in order to help visitors in identifying them (see page 46). Unfortunately very few of the trees have common names.

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CLIMBING MOUNT MERU

Meru Summit 4566 m Litile Meru 3820 m

Momela Gate i 500 in (approi)

Meru is an exciting mountain to climb. There are numerous animals to see on the lower slopes and vegetation zones change as you ascend. Parts of the climb along the sa.ddle are very steep but the views of Kilimanjaro and of the cliff face from the summit down to Meru Crater are spectacular. Although Mt Meru is usually Climbed from the western side at Olkokola, it can be climbed via Little MerU.

MoUHtaiii OQots are recommended but stout walking shoes are sufficient in dry weEitHer. THe best time of year to climb the mountain is between October and l='ebrUa.fy, altHoUgH tHere may be ralh in November. The Park has some climbing gear whicH Cah be hired but it is recommended that you come well prepared. It is advisable to book yoUr visit ih advance as you must be accompanied by a Park toHget oh yoUr climb. A fee is charged for this service and in the event of your l1e13dlHg !p be rescued a rescue fee is also cha.rged.

Although the summit has been climbed in one day, most people'Bliaw three days 1(11' the trip.

Isl day: nd day:

:3 hour walk from Momela Gate to Miriakamba Hut. Explore Meru Crater in the afternoon.

3 hour climb to Sa.ddle Hut: 1 V2 hour climb to Little Meru in the aftethooh.

Ascend to tHe summit of Meru and then return to Miriakamba Hut or Momela Gate.

3rd day:

Certificates will only be issued to climbers starting from and returning to Momela Gate.

Bookings should be made through the Warden, Arusha National Park, P.O. Box 3134, Arusha .

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GUIDES:

A Field Guide to the Birds of East Africa JoG. Williams & N. Arlott

Collins 1980

A Field Guide to the Larger Mammals of Africa Jo Dorst & Po Dandelot

Collins 1970

A Field Guide to the Mammals of Africa including Madagascar T. Haltenorth & H. Diller

Collins 1980

GENERAL:

Portraits in the Wild: Animal Behaviour in East Africa C. Moss

Univ. Chicago Press 1982

E Huxley & H. van Lawick

Harvill Press 1984

ABOUT ARUSHA:

Aru$ha (Ngurdoto Crater) National Park Checklist of Birds

Tanzania National Parks

CHECKLISTS

COMMON NAME

BIRDS

Bee-eater, Cinnamon -chested

Eagle, Fish

Eagle, Tawny

Eagle, Verreaux's Goose, Egyptian Grebe, Little

Grebe, Great crested Falcon, Peregrine Flamingo, Greater

lamingo, Lesser rancolin, Scaly

Hornbill, Silvery-cheeked I Jlmmergeyer

flmrot, Red-fronted Plgoon, Olive

I'ochord. Southern Il/lvon. White-necked

w11llow. Black rough-wing 'I (I\ltJfl, Bar-tailed

Iltlwm, Nnrlns's

I1I1I1U I, Ilmllnub's

MAMMAl

I h illi li Ill, Illlv/I I h Jlflllo

I h Hillliwlh

1111\( 11I\, ',h 1\'11 11ll11\UI,IIIIII nllll\Ui, 'Illfllt 1>lllImr, null L1urhnnl, Ahh./lfl Cllmllo, Mnrmnl

J IIppopolmT1Ut Hyono,Spotted 1<lIpspringer Loopard

Mongoose. Banded , Monkey, Black & white

colobus Monkey, Blue Monkey, Vervet Reedbuck, Bohor Warthog

Waterbuck, Common abra, Burchell's

LATIN NAME

KISWAHILI NAME

Merops oreobates Haliaeetus vocifer

Aquila rapax

Aquila verreauxi Alopochen aegyptiacus Tachybaptus ruficol/is Podiceps cristatus

Fa/co peregrinus Phoenicopterus ruber Phoeniconaias minor Francolinus squamatus Bycanistes brevis Gypaetus barbatus Poicephalus gulielmi Columba arquatrix

Netta erythrophthalma CONUS albicol/is Psalidoprocne pristoptera Apaloderma vittatum Apa/oderma narina Tauraco hartlaubi

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Coiobl.JS abyssinicl.Js Cercopit/18CI.JS n7l/is Cercopit/7ecus aethiops Redunca redunca Phacochoerus aethiopicl.Js Kobus el/ipsiprymnnl.Js Equus burchel/i

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Mtilili

Mwewe samaki Msasi

Cheusi

Bata maji

Kibisi mdogo Kibisi mkubwa Kozi

Heroe mkubwa Heroe mdogo Kwale

Hondo hondo kijivu

Kasuku Njiwa

Kunguru mweusi Kijumbamshale mweusi Mdiria-miraba Mdiria-kijani Shorobo-bluu

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Nyani

Nyati' or Mbogo pongo

Digidigi or Saruya Paa

Nsya

• Funo

Tembo or Ndovu Twiga~

Kiboko:O'

Fisi

Mbuzi mawe Chui Kicheche

Mbega mweupe Kima

Tumbili

Tohe

Ngiri

Kuro ndogoro Punda milia

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